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Colour Trends for 2022

The biggest color trends for 2022 include an autumn bouquet, pretty pastels and a step back into the ’70s


Blood Red


As if to perfectly illustrate the theme, the most prominent colors on the stands composed a natural autumn bouquet. This palette appears on furniture, accessories and finishes with hues running from red to yellow by way of burnt orange and terra cotta. These individual shades bring a lot of warmth into an interior, with a few pleasant surprises, like blood red.


Terra Cotta


The autumnal composition begins with a shade that has been talked a lot about for the last few years: terra cotta. The shade is still very much present in international collections, appreciated for its direct connection to the earth, bringing us back to nature.


Burnt Orange


New this year, burnt orange completes this spectrum of warm colors, bringing with it a dose of nostalgia and a return to the decor of the ’70s.


Elizabeth Leriche, director of the eponymous style agency, says, “The lifestyle of this era is well loved, doubtlessly because the young generations are nostalgic for these happy years when everything was permitted. There is a desire for a less formal, more relaxed and more convivial lifestyle”.


Brown


Brown fits naturally in this ode to autumn, as it is a pleasant, neutral and relaxing shade. It is also expressed in the choice of materials, with natural fibers, leather, and darker woods than we have gotten used to in the last few years.


Warming Yellow


Pantone selected it as the Color of the Year 2021: hopeful, optimistic and joyful, yellow is by no means an afterthought. It made its appearance on the autumnal palette with softer, warmer and more muted shades than Pantone’s Illuminating, with tones like mustard or pastel yellow.


Klein Blue


Yellow is combined, in moderation, with another color that had a big comeback this year: Klein blue which is another hint of the return to the ’70s.


Mauve


Another surprise is that mauve and violet have returned to the forefront in decor. Unexpected, but seductive in daring combinations with the other bold shades, like Klein blue or yellow.


Moss Green


What would reconnecting with nature be without a notable presence of green, the best representative of the plant world?


In the coming season, the trend is moving slightly away from pine green and sage and turning rather toward moss and lichen shades. In other words, tones reminiscent of the interiors of the ’70s, which are combined with burnt orange to really commit to the period.


Brown to Beige


Balancing all of these striking colors is a very natural and natural palette composed of ecru, beige, stone grey, taupe and brown. In other words, very organic shades, related at once to the earth and the mineral world, which can be used to create a soft and relaxing atmosphere.


Pastels


Likewise responding to this need for softness in interiors, once again pastel tones are on the forefront, particularly pale pinks. They are part of a more general tendency towards less saturated colors than the ones we’ve seen over the past few years.


Color Blocking


More than the colors themselves, the real novelty is the way they are combined in a big revival of color blocking, which is so representative of decor from the ’80s and ’90s. Colors no longer match, but clash as contrasting solid colors within the decor.

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Cleaning Hardwood Floors

Although hardwood flooring is an investment, it’s one worth considering, new hardwood flooring more than pays for itself at selling time. What’s the best way to clean and care for this popular flooring and keep that natural beauty and value shining through? Here’s how to clean hardwood floors.


It’s not the material — oak, maple, mesquite, bamboo, engineered hardwood or something more exotic — that determines how hardwood floors should be cleaned, but rather the finish.


Surface finishes, often referred to as urethanes or polyurethanes, are among the most popular treatments today and are usually applied to hardwood floors after installation to protect them and make them more durable and water resistant. These finishes create a protective barrier. There are four types of surface finishes: water based, oil based, acid cured and moisture cured.


Homes built before 1970, including historic residences, may have original wood floors that were sealed with varnish, wax or shellac. These require a different approach to cleaning. These types of finishes work by penetrating the wood to color the planks and form a protective shield. Using a wax coating after staining provides a barrier against wear and tear and gives the floor a beautiful low-gloss satin sheen. The classic look requires a little extra TLC, however, since water-based products and mopping can damage the finish.


Before Cleaning: Determine Your Finish


Before scrubbing hardwood floors, figure out whether they are finished with a polyurethane, shellac, wax or varnish. Maybe they have a finish that has worn away and is no longer providing coverage. To determine the finish try these tests:


◦ Run your hand over the wood. If you can feel the texture of the grain, the floor has a “penetrating” finish, usually a combination of a natural oil, such as linseed or tung oil, mixed with additives for drying topped with wax.


◦ In an out-of-the-way spot, dab on a little paint remover. If the finish bubbles up, it is a surface finish, like polyurethane, which coats the floor in a protective layer.


◦ In an out-of-the-way area, place a few drops of water. If the water beads up and does not soak into the hardwood, the finish on the floor is intact. If the water is absorbed into the floor or leaves a dark spot, the wood is unfinished or the protective layer has worn away.


◦ If you sprinkle on a few drops of water and white spots form beneath the droplets after about 10 to 15 minutes, the floors are sealed with wax. To remove the white spots, use a piece of fine steel wool lightly dampened with wax and rub gently.


◦ If you suspect a varnish or shellac, take a coin and scratch the surface of the floor in an inconspicuous corner. If the floor has been sealed with one of the older finishing methods, it will flake off.


Preventing Dirty Wood Floors


Not wearing shoes in the house is one of the best ways to keep hardwood floors clean. It will significantly reduce dirt, scuffs and daily wear and tear, and lessen cleaning time.


Don’t walk on wood floors with cleats, sports shoes or high heels. For example: A 125-pound woman walking in high heels has an impact of 2,000 pounds per square inch. Furthermore, an exposed heel nail can exert up to 8,000 pounds of force per square inch.


Whether you got out your calculator or not, the possibility of impact and denting appears to be undeniable. However, while you can’t always ask guests to shed shoes at the door, it might be a policy worth considering for family members.


What Not to Do


No matter what type of wood flooring you have, do not using cleaning products meant for vinyl or tile flooring. Self-polishing acrylic waxes are not recommended for cleaning hardwood floors, as the wood will become slippery and appear cloudy quickly.


Another no-no: wet-mopping wood floors, since standing water can dull the finish, damage the wood and leave a discoloring residue. Along the same lines, avoid overwaxing unfinished wood floors in an attempt to restore luster. If a waxed floor has become dull, try buffing the surface instead.


Best Way to Clean Hardwood Floors


Cleaning polyurethane finished hardwood floors, for floors installed after 1970, starts with vacuuming, sweeping or dust-mopping the surface.


Vacuuming


Vacuum wood floors daily, or at least once a week with a vacuum fitted with an attachment for wood floors. For regular machines, turn off interior rotating brushes or beater bars if possible.


Regular vacuuming helps remove dust and dirt particles that play a leading role in scratching and dulling the surface of the floor.


Sweeping


Choose a broom with “exploded tips,” also known as synthetic fiber ends, is step one.


Damp Mopping


If you want to clean your hardwood floors naturally, damp mopping should be done with a simple solution of pH-neutral soap, like dishwashing soap and water; or one capful of a mild cleanser such as Murphy Oil Soap in a bucket of water; or a solution using products specially formulated for wood floors, such as Eco Mist Colloid W, Dr. Bonner’s or Method.


In conscientious cleaning circles, controversy swirls around whether it’s recommended to clean hardwood floors with vinegar and water. Ultimately, everyone has to do what works best; however, within the past 10 years this method has lost favor, and popular belief now holds that the solution causes floors to dull more quickly and is not as effective as simple soap and water.


To begin mopping, dampen the mop in the prepared solution, wring it out completely, and mop in the direction of the wood grain. Repeat as necessary. As the water in the bucket becomes dirty, dump it out and refill. Many experts believe scrubbing hardwood floors with a damp cloth by hand is the ultimate cleaning strategy — unless abundant square footage or protesting knees prove problematic.


But avoid cloths or mops dripping with water. If your floors do get wet or worse, dry them immediately to avoid streaks!


Another technique: After the floor has been swept or vacuumed, put your cleaning solution of choice in a spray bottle and mist the floor, then use a dry microfiber mop or cloth and mop in direction of the wood grain.


It’s important to note that just because a floor is clean doesn’t necessarily mean it will be shiny. If the floor has lost its luster, it may be time to have it refinished. Whatever you do, don’t wax a polyurethaned finish.


How to Clean Old and Unsealed Hardwood Floors


Unfinished or waxed floors, like those in older and historic homes, as well as floors in which the protective seal has worn away, should never be treated with water or liquid cleansers, which may penetrate, stain or warp the wood. Instead, sweep with a soft-bristled broom and vacuuming should be done as the primary line of defense. Never damp-mop a waxed floor.


Beyond basic care, buffing and waxing the hardwood floors once or twice a year should keep them shiny.


Old-fashioned shellacked floors are not common in most homes. However, if you find yourself the proud owner of this vintage flooring, regular care should include sweeping and vacuuming often. Avoid water and liquid cleansers.


How to Clean Engineered Hardwood Floors


Engineered wood flooring is created with a thin veneer of hardwood fused on top of a plywood base. The material is stronger and more durable than regular hardwoods, and as a result has become a popular choice.


The cleaning procedure for this type of wood is the same as for hardwood floors with urethane finishes. Keep clean on a daily basis by sweeping and vacuuming and use a slightly damp mop as needed.


How to Clean Painted Hardwood Floors


Painted wood floors make a strong style statement and are a clever way to disguise wood flooring in less than perfect shape. To clean a painted wood floor, sweep, vacuum or dust-mop regularly. Avoid scratching or damaging the painted surface by staying away from abrasive cleansers and opting for a simple soap and water solution for damp mopping. Experts suggest drying the surface immediately by hand to avoid streaking and unnecessary moisture.

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Refresh Your Deck

New decor, potted plants and string lights are good places to start when refreshing a deck. But there are other ways you can make a big difference without a major renovation. Here are some tips that will give your deck flair, functionality and interest.


Hang Art


Art pieces made from metal, wood, glass, fiberglass and resin are weather-resistant choices, as is canvas treated to be weather-resistant.


Look for art designed for outdoor installation, including pieces made of metal. Even the most weather-resistant works should be placed out of direct sun and rain to prolong their longevity. Bringing them inside during the winter months will also help ensure they’ll last.


Alternately, you can always just find something you love and use it temporarily. That will give you a chance to change your look over the years.


Up Your Lounging Game


Embrace the dog days of summer with a dedicated spot for lounging. A hanging daybed is perfect for lazing away long, sunny afternoons.


If a daybed isn’t quite your style, or your space is limited, a hanging swing or hammock is another possibility. If you prefer to stay firmly planted on the ground, a glider might be your lounging spot of choice.


Install a Bench


Permanent or seemingly permanent benches are multipurpose additions to any deck. They provide extra seating while not taking up as much room as freestanding chaises and chairs, which is a plus if your deck is on the smaller side. They can substitute for or augment deck railings, providing a solid edging. They can also add storage space.


Add planter boxes at either end or between two benches to give you more growing space, whether it’s favorite fragrant annuals and perennials or vegetables and herbs that you can pick fresh when it’s time to prepare an outdoor meal.


Upgrade Lighting


Give your deck an enchanted nighttime glow with outdoor lighting. You can also do an updated take on string lights by running them vertically along one wall rather than stringing them overhead. Or, scatter a few lanterns throughout the space. If you don’t have them already, add step lights along the edge or near level changes to make your deck an inviting and safe space where you can still enjoy the night sky.


Provide More Privacy


A landscape screen is a simple way to block an unsightly view, add privacy, define a space or even provide decorative interest.


You can turn almost any material into a screen. Wood or lattice may be the first things to come to mind. Take the time to explore something more decorative, from metal to glass or fabric. A row of planters filled with tall grasses or small trees could serve as a living alternative.


Play Some Games


Who can resist the draw of oversize chess pieces? If chess isn’t your game, consider setting up a cornhole game, pingpong table or other outdoor activity. Add some lighting and you can continue into the evening.


Consider adding covers or an overhead structure if you want to protect the equipment from rain; you’ll also want to bring them indoors once the weather turns chilly. In the meantime, let the games begin.


Elevate Your Plants


Add some style to your space by adding planters in various sizes to the deck surface and fill them with some combination of flowering plants, small shrubs, trees, fruits, vegetables and herbs.


It’s best to keep the planters themselves slightly elevated above the deck surface to allow for runoff from watering and to prevent staining. Place a support with casters under the largest planters to make them easier to move.


Serve Up Things in Style


A counter or bar takes your deck’s functionality up a notch or two. A simple countertop mounted on the wall beneath a kitchen window can become a serving bar or eating area — and it makes shuttling food and drinks outside much easier.


If a kitchen window isn’t available or practical, a serving bar set along a wall is another option. It gives you a permanent spot for setting out drinks and food when you’re entertaining and also an opportunity for a bit of decor or lighting. A bar set on a railing provides a conversation spot while you enjoy the view.


Update the Color


If the surface itself is looking faded, give your deck a jolt of color. Painting the decking, rather than re-staining, allows you to add some personality to the space.


Paint gives you an almost unlimited palette to choose from. Shades of blue, green and brown that reflect nature’s hues have a calming effect. Brighter colors add a burst of energy to the space. Add stripes or patterns, outline the edges to add definition, create a faux finish such as a rug or tile look or add decorative elements throughout.


Be sure to choose paint that’s formulated for use on a deck. From cleaning to adding final touches, the process will take time, so be prepared for your deck to be out of commission while this is happening.


Add Shade


Adding a pergola above all or a portion of your deck may not be as time-consuming as you think. Depending on the complexity and the amount of preparation needed, including time for setting footings and staining or finishing the materials, it could take about a week to build a basic pergola.


In the end, you’ll have a shaded spot when the sun is blazing. Include some lights, whether wired in or battery operated, and it will also become an evening destination.


Do a Deep Clean


If you notice that your deck is starting to show some wear and tear, summer is a good time to give it a good cleaning or even refinish the decking and railings.


Cleaning your deck’s flooring is a good weekend project that you can probably finish in a day. In many cases, moving things off the deck and back into place may take the most time. Rent a power washer or use warm water and dish detergent, or opt for a cleaning solution formulated for your deck paired with a stiff broom.


Refinishing will take longer. You’ll need to wait 48 hours after cleaning to apply the finish, and that can take some time. It will be worth it, though, when you see how much it improves the overall look of your deck.

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What To Do With Your Edible Garden After The Summer Harvest

You’ve picked every pepper and harvested the last basket of tomatoes from your summer garden. Now what?


Your end-of-season care plays a big role in whether or not your edible garden will continue to perform well in the future. This guide to post-harvest garden care — including how to restock soil nutrients, when to mulch, which plants not to compost and more — will help set up your edible garden for success for years to come.


Finish the Harvest


When you’re ready to finish up your summer garden, pick all remaining fruit, veggies and edible leaves. Many fruits, such as tomatoes, will continue to ripen once they’ve been picked. Have an end-of-summer feast and make plans to preserve, freeze or give away excess produce.


Dry herbs like thyme, basil, lavender and rosemary to use in winter. To harvest and save the seeds of beans and squash, allow the fruits to fully ripen and dry on the vine before picking. Store the seeds in a labeled jar or envelope in a cool, low-moisture space.


Remove Summer Edibles, Diseased Plants and Weeds


Strip plants of any remaining fruits and seeds and remove them from garden beds. You can add the plants to your compost, if you have one, or toss them in the green wastebin. Remove and discard any plants that show signs of disease. Plants covered in powdery mildew, which often shows up as dusty white spots on leaves, should be added to the garbage or yard-waste bin — not the compost pile.


Once soil is exposed, use your hands or a garden hoe to remove weeds that have been hiding under summer plants. Weeds that have not yet formed seeds can be composted; those that have set seed should be thrown away.


Empty and Clean Pots


After harvesting all remaining fruit or edible leaves, remove tired or dying summer herbs and vegetable plants from containers.


If the plants show no signs of disease, you can empty the containers’ soil onto the compost pile or onto garden beds. Spread out the soil with a rake and remove any root balls by hand.


Clean pots with a brush and a solution of vinegar and soapy water. Store them upside down in a sheltered area until next spring or fill them with fresh potting soil for new cool season plants.


Replenish Soil Nutrients


Good soil is the secret to having a successful and productive edible garden year after year. The herbs and vegetables you grew this summer have spent months taking up soil nutrients to fuel their growth and fruit production. If you plant the same crops in the same soil next year without adding nutrients back to the soil, the plants won’t grow as tall or produce as many fruits and veggies. But if you take care of the soil and replenish its nutrients, you can maintain a healthy edible garden season after season.


Soil amendments and cover crops are the two most common ways to return nutrients and organic material back to the soil.


Soil amendments. If you have a supply of homemade compost, now’s the time to put it to use. Otherwise, you can pick up bagged compost at your local nursery. You can also find organic fertilizers designed to replenish nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium for specific crops. Spread a thick layer of compost over the top layer of soil. Add other amendments as needed according to package instructions.


If your soil felt heavy when pulling out plants, it may also benefit from even more organic material, such as compost, straw or fully dried leaves.


After adding compost, soil amendments and any other organic material, turn over with a shovel, working everything into the soil.


If you live in a mild-winter region, you may choose to replant beds at this point with cool season crops, such as peas, carrots and cabbage. In cold-winter areas, you may just want the beds to rest until spring planting.


Cover Crops 


You can also return nutrients back to the soil with the help of cover crops. Among their many benefits, cover crops help improve soil texture, prevent erosion, suppress weeds and add important nutrients to the soil wherever they are planted.


A cover crop is not grown for harvesting. Its primary purpose is to replenish soil nutrients and organic material without the use of added fertilizers. Rye grass, oats, barley, clover and nitrogen-fixing legumes are commonly used as cover crops. Planting a cover crop will take a bed out of rotation for a season, but the soil will be healthier for the next round of planting.


Fava beans, are easy cover crops to try in a small garden. Plant a bed with favas, allow them to produce pods for harvest, if you want to eat them and then cut or mow the plants on the bed, allowing the fallen cuttings to stay on the surface of the soil as a “green manure.” Till the organic matter into the soil two to three weeks before spring planting to give them time to decompose and help improve the soil.


Mulch


If you’re not using a cover crop over winter, spread a layer of bark, straw or dried leaf mulch over the soil’s surface. The mulch will help suppress weed growth, keep the soil warm for any newly planted cool-season crops and maintain soil moisture.


Cut Back Vines, Brambles and Other Perennial Crops


Cut back thin or straggly vines, unwanted side shoots and larger vines on grapes, kiwis and other fruit vines.


For brambles, such as blackberries, boysenberries and raspberries, choose four to six of the healthiest, most vigorous canes to keep on each plant, cutting all others to the ground.


Thin strawberry beds by dividing plants and replanting them in rich, well-draining soil where there is room to spread out. As asparagus and artichokes start to naturally die back at the end of the season, cut back plants to about 6 inches above the ground.


Fertilize and Mulch Perennials


All of the edible perennials mentioned — grapes, brambles, strawberries, asparagus and artichokes — benefit from sprinkled organic fertilizer at the base of each plant and a layer of bark or straw mulch to protect them from cold winter temperatures.


Clean and Store Garden Tools and Supplies


Store trellises, tomato cages and other garden supplies in a garden shed or covered area over winter. Organize tools and give them an end-of-season cleanup.


Dip the metal parts of shovels, spades, hand trowels and pruning shears in a diluted bleach solution to prevent the spread of diseases, then wipe dry. Sharpen tool blades that need it. Condition both the metal and wooden parts of tools with a light coating of oil to prevent rust and to keep handles hydrated. Store tools in a garden shed, garage or covered area.


Plan for Next Year


Don’t forget to take time to make notes for next year’s edible garden. Ask yourself what your favorite varieties or most successful plants were. Were there any plants that did not thrive? Could your next edible garden benefit from more pollinator attracting plants? If so, plan on planting them around the edges. Jot down these garden notes now, so you’ll have a plan for success next spring.

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How To Choose A Paint Colour

Putting a new paint colour on the walls is one of the quickest and most cost-effective ways to transform a room. But where do you start if you haven’t already picked out a colour? An interior designer or colour consultant can help you hone in on the general colour you want, such as yellow, gray, white or green. A pro can also advise you on the specific paint colour to choose.


But before you commit, it’s worth considering which colours you truly love.  Here are some practical suggestions that will have you feeling more colour-confident in no time.


Visit Your Closet


Whatever you do, don’t just head straight to the paint store to browse through the paint chips, or you risk being majorly overwhelmed. Of course, if you’ve already done this, you’re not alone.  Before you go to the paint store, you really want to narrow down the colours. Even before you pick up the swatches.


But how do you narrow down a colour in the first place?  Examine your wardrobe. Look in your closet and see what colours you wear often. You are going to gravitate toward certain colours that look good on you. What better way to look great in the interior than if you paint what you look great in?


Browsing your wardrobe can also help you come up with ideas for accent colours. For instance, if you tend to wear a lot of blue and often pair it with khaki, tan leather shoes and silver jewelry, perhaps those colours could be a theme for your home. You could translate that theme to your living room with blue walls, soft leather furnishings, and gray or silver for other accents like the rug and toss pillows.


Unearth Your Happy Memories


What colour was your room growing up?. What colour makes you the happiest?


Inspiration can come from anywhere. Maybe your grandmother’s kitchen was yellow, and you have great memories of traveling with her. Maybe you saw this great shade of blue when you were traveling in the Caribbean, and it calms you.


If no colours come to mind from your memories, try getting out a photo book from one of your favorite trips and seeing if any colours speak to you. As you go about your days, visiting restaurants, shops and even other people’s homes, pay attention to which colours you’re most drawn to.


There are no real rules about colour. You really have to know what moves you and not be influenced by what other people like and what other people say.


Envision the Feeling You Want


So you’ve decided to paint your room blue. How do you narrow down which blue? It can be helpful to think about the feeling that you want to create in the room. If you’re seeking a cozier feel, choose a blue on the darker end. If you’re going for a more serene vibe, a lighter, perhaps sea blue may be better.


As you’re drawn to shades of blue, pay attention to whether you prefer blues that tend toward lavender, green or pure hues. Knowing the undertones of the shade you’re selecting is useful for coordinating with trim and accessories. A good designer will be able to identify these undertones and help you select a paint that works with your furnishings.


You’ll also want to keep in mind whether your paint colour should have cool or warm undertones — and again, a designer can be invaluable in helping you identify these subtleties. If you’re starting from a blank slate, a cool gray or a warm gray might suit you equally. But if you already have furniture and accessories in warmer hues, you may want to choose a warmer tone that complements what you already have.


Seek Inspiration


Browse the internet, magazines etc for general colour and style ideas, and tone and value inspiration — meaning light or dark or medium. But keep in mind that the way colours read on your computer screen or mobile device probably won’t be the way they read in your room, where they’ll be affected by the amount of light and even the landscaping that the light is coming through.


If you fall in love with a colour online, go out and select a swatch and bring it home before committing. Even colour chips won’t be exactly how the paint colour will appear, so it’s important that you actually test out the paint on your walls.


Tip: As you’re browsing for inspiration, look for rooms that are similar in size and shape to the one that you’ll be painting; that way, the effect will be more similar.


Narrow Down Your Options: No More Than Four Colours


Once you’ve settled on a general colour, your designer can save you a lot of time by suggesting a few excellent paint colour choices and helping you choose the best option among them. However, if you like to be more involved in the selection process, you might head to the paint store and pick out several chips and bring them home. Then it’s time to winnow them down.


Say you come home with eight shades of blue. Lay all the swatches out and compare them to each other. You will start to see the subtle differences between each colour. Some of the blues lean toward green or aqua. Some are a denim shade. Some have a funky undertone that you just don’t like at all.


Winnow down the options to three or four colours. You can tack the colour chips to the wall of the room you’ll be painting, or use a sheet of paper as a neutral background. Keep in mind as you make your comparisons that the paint chips will appear a bit darker on a light background, and lighter on a dark background. Often, after comparing the paint chips to each other, it will be pretty clear which colour is going to work.


If you still aren’t comfortable with the colour options, you could consider taking away all but one option and looking at each colour individually. As you assess the colours, consider how each option will look with the elements of your room already in place and that you’re not willing to change.


Put Paint Samples Right on the Wall


Once you’ve chosen your three or four final colours, it’s time to test them. It is better to paint the wall than the sample boards the paint store sells. This is not just because it’s more economical. You need to paint at least a 1-by-1-foot square on all four walls, some designers recommend painting an even larger area -  at least 3 by 3 feet. Paint on the wall because that’s exactly where it’s going. You’re painting over a previous color.


Place the paint samples side by side on the wall. They should still be lined up because you still need to compare and choose based on the process of elimination. Again, if this is overwhelming for your eye, you could consider looking at them apart.


It’s also important to make sure the sample you purchase has the finish that you’re planning to use - matte, eggshell, satin, high gloss - because that can also change the way a colour reads. Many stores sell the sample-size cans only in the matte finish. You may want to consider buying a full quart to get the true effect.


Look at the samples on the wall at various times of day, and try different types of lighting to see how that may change the colours. Live with the colours for a few days. When a clear winner emerges, you’re ready to paint the walls.

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