Having a small yard or other limited outdoor space, whether it’s a little patch of land, patio or deck, doesn’t mean you have to give up on growing a tree. While they’ll never reach the height of a stately elm or oak, the following trees and tree-like shrubs can add a focal point, shade and even wildlife benefits in limited space. Here are some trees recommended for growing in containers.

‘Emerald Green’ Arborvitae  Thuja occidentalis ‘Emerald Green’, syn. ‘Smaragd’

Why This Tree: 

This small evergreen tree boasts a beautiful green color, dense foliage and a conical form, all of which can be easily appreciated when it is grown in a large container. 

The cultivar was developed in Denmark, which explains both its preference for colder climates and its name “smaragd”, the Danish word for “emerald”.

Growing Tips: 

Arborvitaes are naturally slow growers. Lightly pruning the new growth will keep wayward branches in check and also control the overall growth.

Water thoroughly when the top inch or so of the soil is dry. Don’t overwater; that can result in root rot. You also may need to provide some winter protection in the coldest climates.

Where It Will Grow: 

Hardy to minus 42.8 degrees Celsius - Zones 2 to 7

Water Requirement: Moderate

Light Requirement: Full sun to partial shade

Mature Size: 12 to 14 feet tall and 3 to 4 feet wide when planted in a landscape, but it stays much smaller in a container.

Dwarf Citrus  Citrus spp.

Why This Tree: 

Dwarf lemons, limes, mandarins, oranges and kumquats are stars in container gardens. They’re naturally small but can be kept even smaller with pruning. They stay green all year and you can add seasonal plants under it and make it decorative. 

Growing Tips: 

You’ll need to start with the right container. A large pot is necessary to provide insulation from hot air temperatures for roots. 

Growing citrus in containers also makes it possible for gardeners and citrus lovers in colder regions to enjoy the fresh fruit. If you have a sunny and warm spot indoors, let the plants spend the winters there.

Where It Will Grow: 

Hardy to minus 3.9 degrees Celsius - Zones 9 to 11; in colder areas, plan to bring it indoors during the winter. In warmer areas, cover it when frosty nights are expected.

Water Requirement: Moderate; less once established

Light Requirement: Full sun, ideally about 8 hours per day

Mature Size: Varies from 2 to 8 feet tall; it can handle pruning to keep it in check

Japanese Maple Acer palmatum cultivars

Why This Tree: 

Few trees offer the delicate beauty and stunning color of the Japanese maple. Japanese maple cultivars grow in a range of shapes, styles and colors: multibranched or with a single trunk; upright or spreading; evergreen or deciduous; and with foliage colors including red, yellow, orange, green and even purple, pink or white. Choose a dwarf or semidwarf variety and make it the solo plant of a container to highlight the form and foliage.

Growing Tips: 

Japanese maples are slow-growing and easy to keep in check. Prune during the dormant season. You may need to provide additional protection in colder climates or if you expect a freeze. 

Where It Will Grow: 

Hardy to minus 26.1 degrees Celsius - zones 5 to 8; provide afternoon shade in Zone 9

Water Requirement: Moderate

Light Requirement: Soft dappled shade or morning sun with afternoon shade is best; too much sun will scorch its leaves.

Mature Size: Varies; dwarf varieties are generally 3 to 8 feet and can be kept smaller with pruning

Hinoki Cypress Chamaecyparis obtusa

Why This Tree: 

This evergreen conifer is naturally upright and slow-growing, so it will take years for it to outgrow a pot. As a bonus, it also provides year-round foliage color ranging from dark green to yellow with minimal to low maintenance. Naturally low-growing choices include ‘Nana Gracilis’ and ‘Nana Lutea’.

Growing Tips: 

Lightly fertilize it in spring. Spring is also the season to do any pruning; you should prune new growth and only as needed to shape the plant.

Where It Will Grow: 

Hardy to minus 34.4 degrees Celsius - zones 4 to 8

Water Requirement: Regular

Light Requirement: Sun to partial shade

Mature Size: 3 to 8 feet tall

Dwarf Pomegranate Punica granatum ‘Nana’

Why This Tree: 

Showy orange-red flowers and glossy leaves that mature from bronze to glossy green to bright yellow make this small hummingbird-friendly plant a standout addition to a small space. Other bonuses are the reddish-brown bark and the small fruits, which are decorative rather than edible. Although usually deciduous, the plant may be evergreen in very warm areas.

Growing Tips: 

This plant loves sun and heat. Prune to keep it to a manageable size and to shape it as a tree.

Where It Will Grow: 

Hardy to minus 17.8 degrees Celsius - zones 7 to 10; move it indoors when the temperature drops below 4.4 degrees Celsius

Water Requirement: Moderate to regular; do not overwater

Light Requirement: Full sun

Mature Size: Reaches 3 to 4 feet tall; can be kept smaller, even as a bonsai, with pruning

Olive Tree Olea europaea

Why This Tree: 

A staple of Italian, French and Spanish gardens as well as those in California and southern Arizona, the olive tree is right at home in a container. It’s naturally slow-growing and shallow-rooted, and can live in a container for years. Choose a fruitless variety, such as ‘Swan Hill’.

Growing Tips: 

Judicious pruning will keep it within bounds, and you’ll be able to enjoy its gray-green foliage, smooth gray trunk and gnarled branches for years. Be aware that the oily fruits will stain when they drop. This tree also may do well in slightly colder climates if you provide shelter in winter.

Where It Will Grow: 

Hardy to minus 9.4 degrees Celsius - zones 8 to 10

Water Requirement: Moderate

Light Requirement: Full sun

Mature Size: Can reach 20 to 30 feet tall and 15 to 25 feet wide, but can be easily kept smaller in a container with pruning

Dwarf Palm Trees

Why This Tree: 

Want your patio to resemble a tropical garden? Dwarf palm trees are the way to go. The hardest part may be choosing just one of the many dwarf and miniature varieties available. Some popular palms that do well in pots are the butterfly palm (Dypsis lutescens), Mediterranean fan palm (Chamaerops humilis), pygmy date palm (Phoenix roebelenii) and lady palm (Rhapis excelsa).

Growing Tips: 

If your climate is subtropical or tropical, your palms will likely survive outside year-round. In colder regions, bring the containers inside to enjoy when the weather gets cold.

Where They Will Grow: 

Generally hardy to minus 1.1 degrees Celsius - zones 10 to 13; some are hardy to minus 6.7 degrees Celsius - zone 9; container-grown palms can thrive in all zones if brought inside during cold months.

Water Requirement: Varies

Light Requirement: Full sun when young; varies as the palms mature

Mature Size: Varies

‘Fastigiata’ European Hornbeam Carpinus betulus ‘Fastigiata‘

Why This Tree: 

Dark-green leaves and gray bark make ‘Fastigiata‘ hornbeam a handsome tree suitable for any style of garden. The yellow leaves in fall just add to its beauty. You can use it as a specimen plant to show off its style.

Growing Tips: 

While the tree can reach a height of 40 feet when planted in the ground, pruning can keep it to a more manageable height for a container.

Where It Will Grow: 

Hardy to minus 31.7 degrees Celsius - zones 4 to 8

Water Requirement: Moderate to high

Light Requirement: Full sun to partial shade

Mature Size: Has a moderate growth rate, reaching 35 to 45 feet tall and 25 to 35 feet wide; can be kept smaller with pruning

Camellia Camellia japonica and C. sasanqua

Why This Tree: 

A favorite in warm-winter gardens, camellias add shades of white, pink and red to a garden throughout the colder months. Though they’re known as shrubs, both Japanese and sasanqua camellias can be easily trained as trees. As such, use them to flank an entry, anchor a mix of plants or create a simple focal point.

Growing Tips: 

Camellias can be fussy, so use a potting mix that contains at least 50 percent organic matter. You’ll also need to watch for sunburn, windburn and camellia petal blight, which turns the flowers brown. If you notice sunburn or windburn, move the plant to a shadier or less open spot. For camellia petal blight, pick and dispose of all affected flowers.

Where It Will Grow: 

Hardy to 0 minus 17.8 degrees Celsius - zones 7 to 9; some newer hybrids are hardy to minus 23.3 degrees Celsius - Zone 6

Water Requirement: Moderate to regular; allow the soil to dry out between waterings

Light Requirement: Light shade but it can tolerate morning sun; sasanqua camellia (C. sasanqua) tolerates more sun

Mature Size: 2 to 20 feet tall; most range from 6 to 15 feet tall and 5 to 10 feet wide

Panicled Hydrangea Hydrangea paniculata

Why This Tree: 

Shrub hydrangeas have long been a popular landscape mainstay. The panicled hydrangea takes the possibilities a step further, as it also can be trained as a standard tree. They can be used as stand-alone sentinels or base-planted with annuals for effect.

Choose a dwarf variety that is already trained as a standard tree. Either ‘Quick Fire’ or ‘Limelight’ make great container presentations, and can be used formally or casually to match the setting.

Growing Tips: 

Panicled hydrangea is one of the easiest hydrangeas to grow and will give you plentiful blooms in summer. It’s also more tolerant of sun, heat and cold than other hydrangeas.

Where It Will Grow: 

Hardy to minus 40 degrees Celsius - zones 3 to 9

Water Requirement: Regular; you can cut back in winter

Light Requirement: Full to partial sun

Mature Size: Look for smaller varieties, including those that will reach only 2 to 3 feet.

‘Grace’ Smoke Tree Cotinus ‘Grace’

Why This Tree: 

It’s hard to overlook a smoke tree. The new foliage is light red, followed by delicate and fluffy pink panicles that can be more than a foot long in the summer. It’s these blooms that give the tree its name. Come fall, the foliage turns shades of red, burgundy and purple. The smoke tree is a showstopper in any small space.

Growing Tips: 

The plant grows easily but can be kept in check with pruning. It’s also drought-tolerant, and pests rarely bother it.

Where It Will Grow: 

Hardy to minus 31.7 degrees Celsius - zones 4 to 9

Water Requirement: Average; do not overwater

Light Requirement: Full sun

Mature Size: Up to 15 feet tall and wide unless kept smaller with pruning

‘Tiger Eyes’ Staghorn Sumac Rhus typhina ‘Tiger Eyes’

Why This Tree: 

Choose a Tiger Eyes staghorn sumac for its color. This dwarf sumac’s chartreuse spring foliage turns yellow-green throughout the summer.

Come fall, the foliage transforms to bright reds and oranges. This sumac even shines in winter. The winter silhouette is a noteworthy feature with its antler-like appearance.

Growing Tips: 

Staghorn sumac has a natural upright form and is easily pruned as a small tree. It’s a great choice for containers, as it can spread aggressively in the ground. Don’t be fooled by the name; the plant is nontoxic.

Where It Will Grow: 

Hardy to minus 34.4 degrees Celsius - zones 4 to 8

Water Requirement: Low to average

Light Requirement: Full sun to partial shade

Mature Size: 3 to 6 feet

Caring for Container Trees

Growing any plant in a container differs from growing it in the ground, and trees are no exception. Here are some general guidelines.

◦  Choose the right plant. Look for plants that will thrive in your climate and the proposed location.

◦  Choose dwarf or semidwarf varieties. These will do well with less pruning to keep them in bounds. Ask for advice at your nursery before buying a tree to grow in a container.

◦  Plant in the largest container you can. You should aim for a soil depth of at least 2 to 3 feet. Make sure the container has a drainage hole. Tip: Place your container on a plant stand with heavy-duty casters to make it easier to move.

◦  Water regularly. The potting mix in containers will dry out more quickly than garden soil, so check plants often. Set up a consistent watering schedule or add a timed drip irrigation system.

◦  Fertilize as needed. The nutrients in potting mixes can be quickly depleted. Fertilize regularly during the growing season, using a diluted solution of organic fertilizer.

◦  Turn your container. Rotating the container periodically will ensure that the tree grows consistently on all sides.

Material price increases, product delays and subcontractors in high demand — remodelers are experiencing pressure from all sides at the moment. Choosing products early, seeking advice from your builder or designer, and being flexible with your selections are key to keeping your budget in check and your project on track.

The Impact Of Price Increases On Projects

The price rises have affected renovations enormously. Projects that are valued over several million dollars can take two years plus for the build. Building materials, deliveries and trades have gone up about 35% in the last 2 years.

The increase in interest rates and in products and materials is changing the renovation and building industry. Rather than choosing just one product supplier for a project, which was previously often the norm, most clients now want two quotes, giving them the option to choose more cost-effective products.

International shipping delays, the tripling of container prices and port fees, and a drop in raw material supply have all contributed to a rise in project costs. Locally, delays due to lockdowns and transport issues, along with reduced staffing capacity, have also played a significant role.

Price rises have impacted the overall build and renovation costs for homeowners, which flows down to the budget for finishes and fixtures. Builders have had to adjust the materials they might typically use in favor of comparable products that are more reasonably priced and accessible. For example, if an Italian tile had been your first choice, maybe tiles that are available locally are more reasonably priced and have a shorter lead time. 

How To Keep A Lid On Project Costs

◦  Work closely with your builder and engineer during the design phase to limit additional costs. This allows you to get input on all aspects of the design.

◦  Find a builder and book a spot in advance with a good lead time between signing the contract and build commencement. Waiting means your builder can plan and book trades and order materials in advance.

◦  Choose fixtures early like appliances, windows, doors and plumbing fixtures so they are available and ready in time for the build. Making selections at the last minute will often mean less choice, higher costs and poorer-quality items.

◦  Buy and source materials locally and domestically to reduce waiting times.

◦  Choose ready-made cabinets, bathroom vanities rather than having them custom-designed. A large number of companies produce attractive off-the-shelf products at a fraction of the cost of custom styles. They are limited in sizes, but a good designer will make them work in your space.

◦  Be flexible so you can pivot and adapt to changes, price increases and delays with an alternative plan or substitution.

◦  Work with experienced designers who knows the best products at the best prices and who understands warranties and where to purchase them. Using an designer will ensure you can avoid estimates from your builder for specifications that you can have a fixed-price contract on, which avoids variations.

◦  Be patient on the timelines of your project. This allows your builder to get multiple trade quotes and means you’re less likely to be stuck paying a premium price for super-busy trades.

◦  Stage your build. Work with your builder and establish whether nonessential work, such as nonessential cabinetry, can be completed at a later time.

◦  Consider a smaller initial remodel but work with an architect or building designer to create a master plan that can be executed at a later stage. Staging a build doesn’t mean the project is less expensive overall –—in fact, it often means the project will cost more in the long run — but it can enable homeowners to get some of the most urgent work done in manageable pieces.

◦  Be open to sharing some of the price increases with your builder. This can help your builder finish the project and not feel pressured to cut corners.

When it’s time to prune your favorite shrub or tree — deciduous trees should be pruned in winter, while evergreen trees are best pruned after flowering — it’s important to do so properly so you can ensure a healthy, attractive plant. And if you’ve looked into pruning, you’ve probably heard terms like “crown raising,” “heading” or “thinning,” among others, being used to describe the type of pruning method needed. But what do these words all mean?

Why Is Pruning Important?

Before you head outdoors and start cutting away at the shrubs and trees in your garden, or consider forgoing pruning, let’s take a few moments to understand why pruning is important.

It encourages strong branching and removes weak or crossing branches.

It eliminates dead or diseased wood.

It stimulates new, attractive growth.

It helps to improve resistance to windy conditions.

It promotes good air circulation, which decreases the incidence of fungal disease.

In short, proper pruning practices are an important part of maintaining woody plants like trees and shrubs.

Pruning Terms To Know

Crown:  The upper part of the tree, made up of the branches, stems and leaves — also referred to as the “canopy.”

Crown Cleaning:  Pruning away dead or diseased branches and stems. This also includes the removal of any “stubs,” which are the dead base of a branch that wasn’t pruned back to the trunk.

Crown Raising:  Removing lower branches back to the trunk to elevate the crown of a tree or shrub. Crown raising is often done to provide clearance for pedestrians, cars or anything else that might be under the tree.

Crown Reduction: The removal of a percentage of the outer part of a tree or shrub by pruning back the leaves, stems and branches. This is often done to prevent wind damage or a tree from blowing over.

Crown Thinning:  Involves the removal of select interior branches to improve air flow and reduce the weight of the tree. The overall shape and size of the tree remains the same when this type of pruning is done.

Heading back:  Pruning back branches up to half of their length to reduce outward growth. This is done with shrubs to reduce their size while promoting a natural shape. Heading back is also done to long, overhanging branches on trees to reduce the weight at the ends and to keep them from touching buildings or other structures.

Root prune: Roots are pruned, and a root barrier often put in place, when they cause problems with foundations, sidewalks or walls through cracks or uplifting. It’s important to have an arborist (a professional tree cutter) do this work, since removing too many roots can kill your tree.

Shearing: This type of pruning is done to shrubs using hedge trimmers to remove a percentage of their outer growth. It is commonly used to create formal hedges or topiary shapes.

Structural Pruning: This type of pruning is usually done on young trees and focuses on creating a strong form by selecting the branches that will give the tree a nice shape, along with strength to withstand windy conditions. Branches that are growing in the wrong direction or have a weak attachment to the trunk are removed.

Topping: This is the removal of the top part of a tree, often done to improve a view or keep a tree from growing into power lines. This type of pruning should never be done, for a number of reasons: It leaves the top of the tree susceptible to sunburn and insect infestations, while the new branches that grow back have weak attachment to the tree and are more prone to breakage and are hazardous. Topping also makes the tree grow faster in its attempt to replace the lost foliage, creating a vicious cycle.

Crown reduction can be done by a professional for trees that need their height reduced. The best option is to prevent the problem from occurring by considering the mature height of trees before planting. The good news is that if you have a tree that has been topped, it can be restored by an arborist by a process known as “crown restoration.”

Pruning Tools

Let’s take a look at the common tools used.

Chainsaw: This is a power saw is used to prune larger branches that other pruning tools can’t. They come in different blade sizes and power levels.

Hand Pruners: This is the smallest pruning tool, used to make cuts that are under 1 inch in diameter. While there are different types of these smaller pruning tools, “bypass pruners” are most recommended — made of two curved blades that bypass each other, creating a clean cut. They are used for making heading and thinning cuts.

Hedge Trimmer: This pruning tool comes in two different forms: manual and power. The manual hedge trimmer looks like giant scissors and is best used to create formal hedges, cutting the small, twiggy growth that makes up the outer part of shrubs. The power version looks very different, with oscillating blades that shear back outer growth easily. Hedge trimmers are used for shearing cuts.

Loppers: The large bypass blades of this garden tool cut through branches that are three-quarters of an inch to 2 inches in diameter. They have long handles, which enable the user to prune tree branches and also reach into the interior of shrubs. A pair of loppers is a great tool for pruning rose bushes.

Pole pruner: Pole pruners are for making pruning cuts up into the canopy of trees while allowing you to keep your feet on the ground. There are different types, which include manual and power saws mounted at the end of an adjustable pole, often reaching up to 16 feet in length. Manual pole pruners have a pruning saw at the end as well as a bypass pruner that is operated by pulling a cord. The power option is a mini chainsaw that can reach up to prune larger branches.

Pruning Saw: A manual saw that is perfect for cutting through branches that are over 1½ inches in diameter. Pruning saws are the tool of choice for limbs too big for loppers. The blade is either straight or slightly curved, sometimes folding into the handle when not in use. With some effort, it will cut through most small to medium branches up to 6 inches in diameter.