Summer has arrived, and it’s time to move outside. If your outdoor space needs some love, it may also be time to invest in some new patio furniture. When adding new pieces, be sure to leave enough room for the furniture and for people to move between different areas. Otherwise, your outdoor living space may feel more cramped than inviting.

Getting Started

Measure Your Space

Before you buy, consider pulling out tape or chalk to mark off the different furniture pieces and desired layout to make sure everything will fit in your space. Good quality patio furniture can last two or three decades, so it’s wise to take some time to choose a setup that will work for you.

Design For Traffic Flow

Determine how you want people to access the various areas of your yard. Consider where you enter the yard, either from the house or through a gate. Choose the best way to reach or pass through various areas, from a patio with a table, seating and maybe a grill to a secondary seating area or a pool or spa.

Allow at least 3 feet of clearance in areas that will get a lot of foot traffic, although 4 feet or even slightly more is preferred. You can go slightly smaller for a simple garden path that won’t get as much back-and-forth use. 

A little more walkway space is also a good idea for safety’s sake around a grill or a swimming pool. A 4-foot clearance between the front of a grill and any other furniture gives the cook and others enough room to work. A 5-foot walking area around an in-ground swimming pool gives people plenty of room to maneuver without risking going into the water.

Add The Comforts Of Home

You’ll want to think about how you want to use the different areas of your yard. Incorporate side tables and coffee tables, chairs and ottomans, as well as rugs, accessories and art to complete your outdoor living space.

Outdoor Dining Setups

Having a place to sit and dine, with at least enough room for a snack or a drink, can be an ideal setup for an outdoor space.

Compact Dining Areas

If you’re limited on space, a bistro table and a chair or two may be your best choice for an outdoor dining setup. Bistro tables are usually only 2 to 3 feet wide. Even when you add in chairs and at least 2½ to 3 feet for circulation, you can fit a bistro table and two chairs into a space that’s 6 by 8 feet.

Larger Dining Spaces

For a larger dining area, calculate the size of the table with the chairs pushed in: length and width for a rectangular table and diameter for a round table. Then allow an extra 3 feet of space on all sides to determine the amount of floor space you’ll need. This gives you room to pull the chairs out and still let people get by.

Are you worried that the right-size table for your needs might feel a bit cramped, especially at each end? Look for an oval table, or a rectangular table with rounded edges at each end. The softer edges provide a few extra inches of space to move around. Rounded edges are also more comfortable if you want to add a couple of extra people at the ends of the table.

Use swivel chairs to save some room; they don’t need to be pulled out very far, if at all, to let people get in and out.

Seating Areas

Next is a place to sit and relax. Your choices range from simple chairs and chaise lounges to sofas and love seats — even swings and gliders. Most outdoor chairs, sofas and love seats are the same depth as their indoor counterparts. Deep-seat options, which some people might prefer for their patio pieces, are slightly deeper to encourage relaxation.

Chairs

Plan on allowing 3 square feet for most chairs. If the chairs recline or have a slanted back, such as Adirondack chairs, be sure to include that in your measurements. You’ll also need to allow space for a built-in footrest or a footstool if you have one.

If you opt for deep-seat options, which usually run 34 to 42 inches deep rather than the more conventional 28 to 30 inches deep, you’ll need to accommodate the extra space required.

Chaise Lounges

Chaise lounges are usually around 80 inches long and 24 inches wide. You’ll want to allow enough room to access the chaise from at least one side — at least 24 inches, though 36 inches would be more comfortable.

Maybe leave room — at least 18 inches — for a small table on one side. Chaise lounges are made for relaxing, so a nearby table means you won’t need to get up for a while.

Outdoor Sofas and Love Seats

Outdoor sofas and love seats give you flexible seating for several people. Just like their indoor counterparts, they’re a gathering spot for relaxing, chatting and maybe even watching an outdoor movie.

Both seating options come in a range of sizes, but a love seat is usually between 52 and 60 inches long, while sofas range from 70 to 94 inches long. The standard depth for both is 30 to 32 inches, but the deeper options are 34 to 42 inches deep.

Porch Swings

When it comes to relaxing, there’s really nothing like a porch swing. A 2-foot-long swing will hold one person; one that’s 6 feet long can hold three to four people. When deciding on how large your swing should be, also plan for 14 to 16 inches on each side. Most swings are about 30 inches deep.

In addition to allowing for length and depth, you’ll also need to allow for the arc of the swing. Plan for about 4 feet in back and 5 feet in front.

Gliders

Outdoor gliders provide the relaxing sway of a porch swing or rocker on a solid and stable base. A glider can hold three or four people, depending on size. Most people opt for a glider that is 4 to 5 feet wide and will comfortably hold two people. Gliders are usually about 30 inches deep. The finished size will depend on the design.

Although their movement is generally less than that of a swing, gliders still need to sit at least 30 inches away from the wall behind them, with a foot or two in front for easy access. It’s also a good idea to plan for about 14 to 16 inches on each side of the glider as well, so it isn’t crowded in its space.

Hammocks

A hammock set under a tree encourages outdoor lounging. The most popular options are single and double hammocks, although you can find larger ones. Hammocks usually measure about 74 to 79 inches long. Single hammocks are 39 to 60 inches wide, while double hammocks are 72 to 84 inches wide.

The anchors for a hammock should be 10 to 15 feet apart. You’ll want the hammock itself to hang about 18 inches above the ground when occupied. Tying a hammock between trees is a time-honored approach, but anchor bolts and even some straps can cause long-term damage to the trees themselves. If you do opt for straps, use tree straps.

Other options include anchoring your hammock to two posts or using a hammock stand. Before you get started, make sure your supports can handle the weight of a person or two.

Accent Tables and Fire Pits

A small table next to a chair, chaise lounge or sofa should be within easy reach, much like a side table inside your home. Allow 24 inches between a coffee table and a sofa, love seat or chairs. Side tables can be closer, as you usually don’t need to move past them to get into a chair or sofa.

A distance of about 18 to 24 inches between a fire pit and the seating area is also ideal, giving you plenty of room to get into the seating area without getting too close to the flames. You can always pull the seating closer if you want more warmth or move it away if it gets too hot.

Watching the Summer Olympic Games in Tokyo just might inspire you to add more playtime to your own routine. While achieving Olympic-level skills maybe beyond the reach of most of us, adding a place for sports in your backyard may be possible — and might encourage you to get outside more.

Simple first steps might include setting up a permanent spot for table tennis, adding some games to your pool or buying a trampoline. More permanent installations can range from setting aside a spot for bocce ball, horseshoes or a putting green to installing sports courts for everything from badminton and tennis to basketball and hockey.

Focus on Family Fun

Taking the time to haul out the bocce set, move the pingpong table outside or string up a badminton or volleyball net is easy enough to do for an occasional activity. But if your family really loves a specific game, why not make it a permanent part of your landscape?

Table Tennis 

A standard table will work but you will need a table that is designed for outdoor use and a smooth, flat space to put it on. If you remove the net it can be used as an outdoor dining table or serving counter. 

Lawns are fine, although you’ll may need to contend with a sprinkler system. A cement or stable paver patio or a spot with crushed stone or firmly packed decomposed granite will also work.

Regulation size for a pingpong table is 5 feet wide and 9 feet long. Extra clearance is needed on each side, with a recommended total space that’s 11 feet wide and 19 to 20 feet long.

Beach Volleyball

Practice your spikes, dives and bumps with a dedicated sand court for beach volleyball. The court could sits along the back of the yard, tucked out of the main outdoor living space but close enough for spectators to cheer on the players.

A popular size for the actual backyard beach volleyball court is around 26 feet by 53 feet. With additional clearance, you’ll need 49 feet by 70 feet feet total. You can go a bit smaller, though, if your space is limited. Just be sure you have enough room to make some plays.

Badminton

Badminton lovers can turn a formerly grassy spot into a permanent badminton court. But if a landscape overhaul isn’t in the works, grass is still a fine badminton surface. Keep it trimmed so you can move easily across it. Other options include a smooth, soft surface of crushed stone or concrete, although the latter can be hot.

A regulation badminton court is 20 feet by 44 feet. You should also plan for enough room to take at least 5 steps backward at each end and two to three steps to each side.

Shuttlecocks are very lightweight and can easily travel in directions you don’t want them to, especially if it’s windy. Situating the court away from your neighbors’ yards can save you trips to retrieve them.

Bocce Ball

Bocce, once known mainly for its popularity in Italian communities, has become a game for all. If you’ve become intrigued, adding a bocce ball court may be easier than you think.

While an official bocce ball court should be 13 feet wide and 91 feet long, you can have just as much fun with one tailored to fit your yard. You can find courts that are as small as 6 feet wide and 22 feet long, although most backyard courts are about two-thirds the size of regulation play.

The key to a good court is a flat, level surface, whether it’s made of concrete, crushed stone, sand or oyster shells. You don’t want anything to interfere with the trajectory of the balls. Adding a short, solid barrier of wood or concrete around the sides will keep things in check. Hang a tape measure nearby for checking the distance between balls so you can settle disputes.

Horseshoes

A game of horseshoes feels leisurely and forgiving, as opponents take turns tossing a horseshoe, or the modern equivalent, and get points for coming close. It’s also a game of precision, both when tossing the horseshoe and following the rules of scoring. 

If that sounds like a great mix of relaxation and skill, then adding a spot for a game may be just what you need. While a place for two stakes set 40 feet apart on a grass, gravel, sand or decomposed granite surface is technically all you need, adding a permanent sand pit, generally 36 inches by 48 inches, ensures you always have a spot for a quick game.

For safety’s sake, spectators and others, especially children, should stay well away from the players and not distract them while they’re pitching, the official term for playing. The players should also pay attention to their surroundings before pitching.

Sports Pool

Minimize the endless repetition of Marco Polo with water versions of dry-land games. Include a net for pool volleyball and a basket at one end for shooting hoops.

Other options? Set a water polo net at each end of the pool, divide into teams and see who can score the most points. Or add a twist to a popular lawn game with inflatable cornhole bowls so you can test your tossing skills while you’re treading water.

As with any swimming-related activity, safety comes first. Keep an eye on swimmers, especially if there are solid objects in the pool.

Workout Setup

A no-longer-used basketball court is a prime spot for working out without having to head over to the gym. 

An outdoor gym is ideal for mild-weather climates, but if your weather is more finicky, you can always add an overhead structure. No matter where you are, you’ll want a level and soft surface, such as mulch or mats, underfoot.

Kid-Centered Gymnastics Training

Let your kids channel their inner Simone Biles with a play area that goes beyond the standard jungle gym. Try a climbing wall, swings, bars and a rope structure. Synthetic turf provides a soft landing spot, although rubber mulch and play sand will also work.

Trampoline

Trampolines are fun. They’re also a sneaky way to improve your coordination and balance and strengthen your core muscles.

It’s easy to add a trampoline to your yard. You just need the room (some are very small) and a flat surface, ideally with some cushioning. Good choices include rubber mulch, wood chips and artificial turf. You can even install a trampoline that’s level with the ground. They are far less obtrusive, but you’ll need to include the same safety features as with an above-ground trampoline.

Wherever your trampoline goes, a net is an important safety feature. You can bounce higher than you think, and the net protects you from flying off and hitting a hard surface, even if you’re at ground level. Anchor the trampoline to the ground whenever possible.

Climbing Wall

A backyard climbing wall can challenge and entertain kids and adults alike. As a bonus, it can serve as a decorative addition to a fence or wall of your home or act as a landscape focal point.

The finished width and height depends on your space and how elaborate you want to make it. A shorter wall is great for kids to get started; a larger wall can give adults more options. Whatever you choose, consult with a professional to be sure the wall is solid, sturdy and safe for everyone.

Another safety concern is what you will land on, because the odds are good that at some point you’ll fall. Rubber mulch at least 3 inches thick is a good choice, as are sufficiently thick rubber mats. Again, consult with a professional before making a final decision.

Putting Green

Let your lawn do double duty as an at-home putting green for practicing tricky lies and chip shots. While home putting greens were once a rarity, they’ve grown rapidly in popularity in the past few years.

Even a relatively small yard can be big enough to add a single hole; many home greens are around 500 square feet. You can adjust the design to fit the shape of your yard and how you plan to use it.

If you want a golf course feel, closely trimmed grasses such as Bermuda grass (Cynodon dactylon), creeping bentgrass (Agrostis stolonifera) and annual bluegrass (Poa annua) fit the bill. A more maintenance-free choice would be artificial turf. Add a hole or two, and you’re ready to play.

Hockey

You could add a full-size hockey rink to your backyard if you have the room and the requisite freezing temperatures. But if you just want a simple spot to practice your shooting skills, then think of a miniature ice surface built into the deck. Its walls are tall enough to keep the puck inside without ruining the view. While the purists may decry the feel of synthetic ice, a very high-quality choice can come close enough for a small home installation while also easing the logistics of making and resurfacing natural ice.

Basketball

Tired of your driveway basketball games, where you have to be careful not to trample the nearby landscape or let the ball go into the street? Dedicating part of your yard to a made-for-basketball court will make heading out to shoot a few hoops a lot more fun.

Depending on your backyard size and your basketball devotion, you can go with either a half court or a full court. In either case, you’ll need 50 feet for the width. The length can vary; while an NBA court is 94 feet long, many homeowners opt for 90 feet for a full court and 47 to 50 feet for a half court. Concrete is the best surface choice, although you can find outdoor tiles that will work. Personalize the look by adding your favorite team’s logo in the center.

Tennis

A home tennis court may sound like the landscape of a great estate, but it may be more feasible than you think.

Finding enough room is the first step. Plan for a total space that’s 60 feet wide and 120 feet long for the court and required space on all sides. The width of a court designed for singles play only will be about 9 inches less, but you’ll still need the length. There are a number of surface possibilities, including grass and clay, but concrete is a durable choice for home courts, and asphalt is a good choice as well.

Take a look at the how the sun moves through your yard before you decide on a final location and orientation. You don’t want to have direct sunlight in either player’s eyes. You might also want to add a backboard so you can practice even when a partner isn’t available.

Pickleball

Pickleball came into being in 1965 when an unused badminton court, a supply of pingpong paddles and a Wiffle ball were cobbled into a game to relieve an extreme case of family boredom. It’s now a fast-growing sport, with official equipment, rules for playing and tournaments — but it remains a low-key game for all ages with the same laid-back vibe.

The pickleball court itself is 20 feet by 44 feet — not surprisingly, given the game’s origins, the same size as a badminton court. You’ll want some room on all sides, so plan on 30 feet wide by 60 feet long. As with most courts, concrete is a preferred surface, followed by asphalt.

You can even play on grass, although the bounce of the ball will change. And if the court itself is slightly smaller in size, most people won’t care. The idea is to have fun.

Multiuse Play Area

A backyard court can do triple duty as a spot for basketball and roller hockey, with a tennis backboard thrown in for good measure. Outdoor lighting means the court can be enjoyed even when the sun goes down.

Basketball courts are a logical starting point for a multipurpose surface. It’s easy to add the nets and the markings for tennis, pickleball and badminton. Adding weatherproof boards around the court and flooding it with water can turn the summer fun space into a hockey or skating rink in the winter in cold-weather climes.

Side-by-Side Setup

Careful planning and a willingness to try something new can let you squeeze more than one sport into your yard, while still having a space that looks great.

Growing your own private orchard is more feasible than ever. For one thing semidwarf and dwarf trees are readily available, and pruning techniques can keep even standard-size trees at a manageable height — letting you add more trees to a smaller yard and keeping the fruit within easy picking reach. You can also find already-grafted trees with numerous varieties on one trunk. Hybrids are stretching the boundaries of requirements for both cold hardiness and chill.

There are a few caveats. Fruit trees aren’t totally trouble free. You will need to provide sufficient nutrients and deal with occasional, or more than occasional, pests and other problems. It may take some time before your tree produces. Fruit trees do best when planted in the fall, winter or early spring, depending on your climate.

Apples

It’s hard to go wrong with an apple tree or two in your yard. Apples hold their flavor well both on the tree and once they’re harvested. They’re great to eat fresh and are a standard addition to a lunchbox, a staple for cooks and a standout as the basis for any number of tasty desserts.

You can find a tree for Hardiness climate zones 1 through 9. They can be grown as traditional trees or espaliered along a fence or wall.

Other things to keep in mind: the type of apple you want (crisp, soft, tart, sweet), when you want to harvest (from midsummer to late fall), disease resistance and pollination needs.

Plums

When it comes to versatility, plums give apples a run for their money. For a fruit tree, they’re surprisingly hardy. They’re less prone to diseases than others, they don’t grow as rampantly as peaches, and they need less water than many other fruit trees.

Choose from a Japanese plum, such as the well-known Santa Rosa, for Hardiness zones 4 through 9; a European plum, such as Stanley, especially if you live in an area with late and rainy springs or in zones 3 through 9; or a hardy hybrid for the coldest climates. Japanese plums may also need a second tree for pollinating.

Plums may be relatively easy, but they still need some care. This includes fertilizing, pruning and dealing with birds’ stealing the crops. They also can take up to five years before they start producing fruit.

Apricots

Landscape tree or fruit tree? With an apricot tree, you don’t have to choose. These generally smallish trees have a great shape and unusual bark, lovely foliage and fruit that can’t be beat for its delicate flavor.

Of course, you need to be able to grow an apricot tree to get these benefits. It’s not so much that they can’t handle the cold — they’re surprisingly hardy — but they flower so early that the potential fruit crop is easily decimated by frost, and they don’t really handle rainy springs. Their primary Hardiness climate zones are 7 to 9, but if you’re daring, try them in zones 4 to 6 in a protected spot.

Apricots need general fruit-tree care but are somewhat less needy than other fruit trees. You’ll probably need to thin the fruit and prune annually, but the good news is that they’re a good choice for options like espaliering. Be prepared to harvest immediately once the fruit ripens, as it doesn’t hold well on the tree. But the fruit is well worth the trouble.

Cherries

Sweet or sour, cherries are near the top of the list of most people’s favorite fruits. The trees are also beautiful themselves, especially when blooming every spring.

Sweet cherries, from Bings and Lapins to Rainiers and Vans, are the ones you can eat fresh. These trees grow in warmer climates, generally Hardiness zones 5 to 9, although if you’re in the warmest climates, be sure you have one that is designated “low chill.” They also can be temperamental to grow and slow to fruit at first.

Sour cherries may not tempt you to eat them off the tree, but they’re great for baking and preserves. They’re also hardier, doing well in zones 4 to 8, and less problematic, including almost never requiring fertilizer once they’re established.

Peaches and Nectarines

Fresh, fully tree-ripened peaches and nectarines are an experience not to be missed. Their flavor seems to define summer. If you live in zones 5 through 9, this experience can be yours.

Peaches and nectarines are grouped together because nectarines are simply a fuzzless type of peach. The number of peach varieties available to home gardeners is almost overwhelming; nectarines offer somewhat fewer options, but there are still a lot to choose from. There are varieties with white flesh and those with yellow flesh, and for some people that difference is major. You can have fruit from early summer into fall. There are varieties for eating fresh and others that are better for canning. There are even some with unusual shapes and “nonpeach” colors.

Peaches do require lots of care through the growing season, including watering sufficiently, maintaining a good feeding program, thinning, pruning and preventing pests and diseases.

Plum Hybrids

Plum hybrids are rapidly becoming the darlings of fruit lovers. These fruits have the best aspects of their respective parents. The apricot-plum hybrids got the ball rolling, but now you can find hybrids that combine plums with peaches, nectarines and cherries, and it seems like there are many more to come.

Plum hybrids need the same climate conditions as their parents and much of the same care, including water and fertilizer needs, pruning and preventing pests and diseases. Check with local nurseries to see what will do well in your area.

Pears

For home gardeners, pears fall into two categories: European and Asian. European pears are the familiar “pear-shaped” fruits that are an autumn staple. Asian pears, sometimes called apple pears, are round, fragrant fruits with a flavor that seems to explode in your mouth. Both can claim a place in a home garden.

European pears grow well in Hardiness zones 3 through 9, though they generally need considerable winter chill. They’re beautiful, long-lived trees that tend to be large, although dwarf and semidwarf varieties are available. If you opt for a European pear, you’ll also need to be sure you have a pollinator nearby. Your biggest problem, and it can be major, is the tendency to develop fireblight, which can easily get out of control. The biggest challenge besides disease is harvesting: Almost all European pears need to be harvested early and left to ripen off the tree.

Asian pears are best for zones 5 through 9, where temperatures don’t drop too low. They’re smaller than their European cousins and easier to keep in check. They also have a long harvest season, with the bonus that the fruit can stay on the tree until ripe.

Persimmons

Talk about a long-lasting fruit. Even after the leaves have fallen and been raked up, you can still find persimmons hanging on to the tree. Even better, persimmons tend to be naturally smallish trees, ideal for today’s smaller gardens. Japanese or Asian persimmons are probably the better-known trees, growing well in Hardiness zones 6 through 9, but there are native American persimmons and hybrids that combine a smaller size with more cold tolerance for gardeners in zones 4 through 9.

Persimmons also have a reputation for being very tart. It’s true that some astringent or soft Japanese varieties live up to their name in that regard. These have to ripen and soften completely while still on the tree to be palatable. But other Japanese varieties as well as American and hybrid persimmons are nonastringent, sweet while they’re still firm.

No matter which type you choose, you’ll find them ornamental trees that are generally unfussy and easy to care for. They’re also relatively immune to major pests and diseases. Your biggest problem may be trying to determine just when to pick the fruit.

Quinces

This garden gem is often overlooked. After all, who really knows what a quince is? But once you make its acquaintance, you’ll be charmed, especially if you’re looking for a trouble-free fruit tree for a smaller yard in Hardiness zones 4 through 9. It is slow growing, is naturally small (for a tree), requires little pruning, seldom develops problems and rewards you with softly colored spring blossoms and bright fall fruit. In fact, you needn’t even grow it as a tree; it can be trained as a shrub or grown in a container.

Of course, there is the question of what to do with the fruit. It’s decidedly more tart than its apple or pear cousins, but cooking it will soften the sting. If you’re really adventurous, try using it as a base for candies.

The one thing you do need to be sure of is that you buy a true fruiting quince. Flowering quinces abound; you may have to search a bit for one that will provide you with fruit.

Citrus

Citrus is not an option for everyone. Citrus trees grow best in Hardiness zones 8, 9 and 10. In other zones you’re probably limited to containers that you bring indoors, or at least into a sheltered space, in winter.

But if you can grow citrus, you’re in luck. First, you’ll have an evergreen tree with intensely fragrant blossoms and delicious fruit that can stay on the tree for long periods. Then, these are some of the most fuss-free and low-maintenance trees around. They’re more drought tolerant than other fruit trees once they’re established. Pruning is fairly minimal, but you can shape them to whatever form you want, from container to bush to tree to espalier. They’re fairly free of pests and diseases. Probably your biggest problem will be protecting them from freezing.

And your options are many. Oranges and lemons are the most common choices, but also consider growing limes, mandarins, grapefruits, kumquats, citrons and pomelos.

With patio furniture, you can extend your indoor style to your landscape or try something completely different. You can mix and match for an eclectic feel. One important consideration, no matter your style, is how well your furniture will hold up to your weather conditions, including moisture, hot sun and strong winds.

More expensive pieces tend to be of better quality and longer-lasting, but don’t use that as your only guide. Check out how well each piece is made and educate yourself on the pros and cons, as well as the care issues, for different materials. If you’re finding secondhand pieces, which can be great bargains, evaluate them with the same eye.

Wood

Wood has long been the go-to option for outdoor furniture. It’s long-lasting, it can handle different weather conditions and it’s wonderfully versatile when it comes to style. You’ll find everything from traditional wood benches and tables to contemporary wood pieces.

Pros

Sturdy, long-lasting and readily available. It doesn’t absorb heat like many other outdoor options. It adapts to any design style. Many options are resistant to mold, decay and rot and repel water and insects. Teak is a good choice for seaside locations.

Cons

Good-quality pieces can be expensive. It requires some yearly upkeep, especially if you don’t want the pieces to weather. May succumb to rot and decay earlier than expected if placed on soft ground or grass without protection. Can splinter and crack in harsh weather.

What To Look For

Wood that is naturally resistant to mold, decay and rot and, ideally, is water and insect repellant. Teak, cedar, old-growth cypress and redwood are the most familiar of these woods, but other options include acacia, eucalyptus and the tropical shorea woods.

Test For Solid Construction

Check for dowels or mortise and tenon construction or hardware made from stainless steel or brass, or that has been treated to be rustproof.

Maintenance

Oil or stain the wood and seal it yearly if you don’t want it to weather to a silvery gray. If you’re painting your wood, use a paint with UV filters to protect from the sun. If possible, cover pieces or bring them inside in winter.

Wicker and Rattan

Wicker and rattan outdoor furniture give your outdoor space a classic country or beach-style look — as long as you keep it under a cover. These natural materials, along with similar options like bamboo and natural grasses, can’t handle prolonged exposure to sun and rain.

If you want to move your furniture to a more exposed outdoor location in summer, seal the wicker with wood furniture sealer or marine varnish (test first in an inconspicuous spot to be sure you like the results) or with tung oil to help preserve it. Painting is another option; finish with marine varnish to help seal the surface.

The good news is that new synthetic options, often called “all-weather wicker,” look like the real thing but will easily handle outdoor conditions.

Pros

Inexpensive, lightweight and easy to care for. Style options range from traditional to contemporary. Natural materials can also be painted. Wicker look-alikes made from resin are a good choice for seaside locations.

Cons

The natural materials will deteriorate with exposure to weather. Strong winds may topple or move lighter pieces.

What To Look For

Solid construction, thick weaving and no fraying or gaps, especially on used pieces. Check how comfortable it is and if you will want cushions.

Maintenance

Vacuum up crumbs and dirt periodically. Wipe surfaces with a cloth or soft brush dampened in a mixture of water and dishwashing detergent. Rinse with cold water. Check periodically for how well the material is holding up. If you seal your furniture, reapply once a year. Cover or store indoors in winter.

Aluminum

When it comes to easy-care furniture, aluminum is at the top of the list. It’s tough enough to stand up to almost anything Mother Nature can throw at it and requires almost no maintenance. It’s also less expensive than many other options. Hollow or tubular aluminum furniture is lighter and less expensive than cast aluminum and generally offers more style options. Cast aluminum, which is sturdier and more expensive, is also usually more traditional in style.

Pros

Inexpensive, lightweight, naturally rustproof and highly durable, especially when coated with a finish. Pieces are available in a wide range of styles and finishes. Cast aluminum is very durable. A good choice for seaside locations if wind isn’t a problem.

Cons

Hollow aluminum is not a good choice for windy areas. It can retain heat from the sun. You also may need to add cushions for comfort.

What To Look For 

Strong construction and a minimum of welds or joints in longer sections; stainless steel or other rustproof hardware. Powder-coated finishes are the most durable.

Maintenance

Clean periodically with a mild soap and water. Cover during winter for added protection, or bring indoors.

Stainless Steel, Steel and Metal

Stainless steel and galvanized steel furniture bridges the gap between aluminum and wrought iron. It’s a good compromise between the two when it comes to its weight, being heavier and less prone to being bounced around than lightweight aluminum pieces but not as massive as wrought iron. Styles range from retro metal chairs to modern design in a wide range of colors.

Pros

Sturdy, durable and easy to care for. You’ll find pieces available in a wide range of styles.

Cons

Steel conducts heat and can become hot to touch. You may need cushions to offset this, or just for general comfort. You will need to apply a protective finish every year or two to galvanized steel furniture if it hasn’t been treated.

What To Look For

Tight construction and smooth joints. Non-stainless steel pieces should be powder-coated to prevent rust.

Maintenance

Clean with a mild soap and water, and rinse with water. Add a protective finish every year to steel to protect against rust.

Wrought Iron and Cast Iron

If you want furniture that can stand up to strong winds, then iron is the way to go. Both wrought iron and cast iron are remarkably solid and also add a sense of historic graciousness and beauty to your space.

Wrought iron, in particular, is known for its ornate, decorative designs. Wrought iron is best used where it can be sheltered from the elements, but you can find rustproof pieces or add a protective finish.

Pros

Solid construction and classic styling. Very long-lasting. Powder-coated pieces are rustproof, although you will need to touch up any scratches.

Cons

Heavy. Will need periodical rust prevention and possible touch-up paint to stave off rust. May need cushions for added comfort.

What To Look For

Choose welded pieces that are solid with smooth finishes. Powder-coated pieces with UV resistance provide the best durability. Test any springs or moving parts to be sure they function well. Check the weight to be sure you can move the pieces.

Maintenance

Wash with a mild soap and water, and rinse to clean. Let it dry thoroughly. You can also apply a wax finish to smooth surfaces and baby oil or mineral oil to other surfaces for added protection. Oil moving parts and springs once a year. Apply rust protection and any needed touch-up paint periodically. Bring inside or under shelter in winter.

Modern Man-Made Materials

Plastics, polyethylene, resin and fiberglass — whatever they’re made from, synthetic options have come into their own as outdoor furniture. They can hold up to almost any weather conditions, although strong winds may be a challenge for lightweight options.

Available colors are almost limitless. When it comes to looks, some choices are unabashedly synthetic; others mimic other materials almost exactly, from Adirondack chairs to futuristic lounges. Many are also made of recycled materials, making them eco-friendly. If you’re at the seaside, look for furniture made of HDPE (High Density Polyethylene).

Pros

Extremely low-cost options make it easy to “furnish” your patio or garden without spending much. Materials are extremely durable and style options seem endless. Synthetic replicas of natural materials may be almost indistinguishable from the real product and hold up better to wear and tear. High-end options may be individualized.

Cons

Plastic resin and PVC aren’t as long-lasting. The lower-end products can be flimsy and colors can fade.

What To Look For

Pieces that don’t wobble or look poorly made. Options with UV protection will last longer, as will higher-end furniture. Check fit to be sure they are comfortable.

Maintenance

Check with manufacturer’s directions, but you can wipe down most pieces with a mild soap and water, and rinse. Store to protect from harsh winter weather and to minimize fading.

If you’re considering working with a landscape designer, finding the right fit — and avoiding surprises midway through the project — is largely about knowing which questions to ask upfront and being familiar with the range of services these professionals provide.

First, Get Your Ducks In A Row

Before reaching out to a professional, write a wish list for your garden remodel, establish your priorities and budget, and decide which parts of the process you’d like to hire a pro for help. With this on paper, you’ll have a clear sense of what you’re looking for in a designer before you begin to contact professionals.

Questions to Ask

What Services Do You Offer? 

First and foremost, determine what services a landscape designer offers to see if he or she is the right person for your project. The best question a client can ask is: ‘Are you experienced with the scope of work we want, and can you design and manage it?’

Generally speaking, landscape designers fall into one of three categories, depending on the services they offer:

Design Only

Some designers specialize only in the design process. This typically includes a site analysis and discussion of a client’s needs, a preliminary design, revisions based on your feedback, and a final detailed master plan for your garden. This detailed planting plan and construction document is then handed over to you (or a landscape contractor of your choosing) to take it from there.

Design-Build

Others offer the design service described above, as well as overseeing plant purchase and all installation. Contractors are needed for permitting and hardscape installation — sometimes the landscape designer is also a registered contractor, and other times they have landscape contractors on their team or ones to recommend and oversee.

Full service — Design-Build and Maintenance Program

For the highest-touch service, some landscape designers will offer all the above, plus oversee ongoing maintenance of the garden.

Can I See Examples of Your Past Work? 

Consider the style of the designer in relation to the garden you want. If you want a modern city garden, have they designed any before? Or if you are looking for a cottage-stye garden, do they have the plant knowledge to deliver?”

Alternatively, if a designer’s portfolio doesn’t include the particular style you’re looking for, check out his or her credentials for evidence of the training to make the vision of your garden a reality. Degrees from accredited landscape design colleges and memberships in professional organizations are both good indicators.

Do You Offer Garden Consultations? 

Some landscape designers will offer one- to two-hour garden consultations. During this meeting, a designer will typically come over to your property, join you for a walk around the garden, listen to what you’d like to accomplish with your remodel and begin to bounce some ideas around for the design.

This is a great opportunity for you to determine whether you have a fit with the designer, and for the designer to see if he or she fits with you as a client. It is important for you to determine what role you want to play. Are you interested in a collaboration, [want to] defer completely to the designer or have a clear idea for your garden and just want someone to implement it?

Don’t expect an initial consult to be free of charge — it is, after all, one or two hours of a professional’s time — though some designers will put the consult fee toward the cost of the design if you end up hiring them.

What Ideas Do You Have For Our Garden? 

After you’ve shared your wish list and budget with the designer, and the designer has had a chance to view your property, ask what vision the designer has for your landscape. Designers have different mediums of presenting their ideas for your landscape, ranging from a collage-style mood board with inspiration images for plants and hardscape materials to a two-dimensional, to-scale drawing created with a CAD program or by hand.

This is the time to speak up about what you like and dislike in the design or if you see anything that’s missing from your wish list — for example, more space for tool storage, room to grow vegetables or an area with shade. Following this meeting, a designer will draw up a revised design drawing based on your feedback.

What Is Your Process? 

A designer’s process depends on the services he or she offers. Get to know the process — and whether you or the designer is responsible for overseeing each step — from the beginning so that you’ll know what to expect once the project is underway. If you’re hiring a designer who specializes in design only, ask yourself whether you have the time or experience necessary to oversee the project installation or if the designer has contractors to recommend.

What Is The Estimated Cost? 

Clear communication regarding the estimated cost of the project and your budget is essential. Ask your designer for a range of cost for both the design and the installation. Most installation estimates are drawn up by a contractor based on the cost per square foot of installing areas of hardscape outlined on the plan for the yard.

Another key question to ask your designer: “How are changes in scope handled during the design and installation process?” Given that unanticipated design changes often come up midproject, it’s important to be clear on whether a designer will charge additional fees for the time it takes to change the design plan or installation.

As a responsible client, you also need to be honest with a landscape designer regarding your budget for the project. Knowing a budget beforehand is crucial, it doesn’t mean that a designer needs to spend the budget but dictates what [he or she] can realistically design for. If a look you like is over your budget, designers often have creative ways to stretch your budget and give you the best garden for your space.

Are There Any Ways To Reduce Cost? 

Pathways, patios, retaining walls and decks are generally more expensive than planted garden areas, so the more hardscape there is in the design, the more it’s likely going to cost to install. Plus, the materials used for hardscape can vary widely for both the product and the installation.

It’s best to have a conversation with a designer when you are discussing the initial plan about ways to reduce the cost of the landscape to stay on budget. The designer will have ideas about where you can save money without compromising style, and what elements are worth a splurge.

How Long Will Installation Take? 

The time it takes to design and install a landscape depends on a number of factors: size and scope of the project, availability of contractors and other installation specialists, ordering and delivery times for materials and plants, dry weather for laying hardscape, and unexpected setbacks during installation. Instead of asking a landscape designer to have the installation done by a certain date, ask for an estimated range for the project to be completed.

As eager as you may be to enjoy your new landscape, keep in mind that skilled installation of hardscape and careful planting takes time. While landscaping on TV is inspirational and great entertainment, high-quality work takes time to install.

When Will The Garden Grow In? 

The time it takes for a garden to grow in depends on the scope of the design, what types of plants are proposed and how mature the plants are when they’re planted. A smaller area with ornamental grasses and perennials can grow in within a single season, but larger and more complex designs with trees and large shrubs can take years to reach maturity. Ask your designer which plants make sense to splurge for semimature specimens (like focal-point trees or shrubs needed for screening) and which plants can be purchased small and fill in quickly (like most ground covers, vegetables and ornamental grasses).

How Much Maintenance Will It Take To Keep The Garden Looking Good? 

Different styles of gardens and plants require very different levels of care. Be upfront with your landscape designer about how much maintenance you are willing to commit — either your own time or that of a hired gardener — going forward. Once you’ve invested in hiring a landscape designer and installing a garden, you’ll want to keep your landscape alive and flourishing for years to come. Ask your landscape designer if he or she has recommended maintenance gardeners or specialists to take care of the garden going forward.