Growing your own private orchard is more feasible than ever. For one thing semidwarf and dwarf trees are readily available, and pruning techniques can keep even standard-size trees at a manageable height — letting you add more trees to a smaller yard and keeping the fruit within easy picking reach. You can also find already-grafted trees with numerous varieties on one trunk. Hybrids are stretching the boundaries of requirements for both cold hardiness and chill.

There are a few caveats. Fruit trees aren’t totally trouble free. You will need to provide sufficient nutrients and deal with occasional, or more than occasional, pests and other problems. It may take some time before your tree produces. Fruit trees do best when planted in the fall, winter or early spring, depending on your climate.

Apples

It’s hard to go wrong with an apple tree or two in your yard. Apples hold their flavor well both on the tree and once they’re harvested. They’re great to eat fresh and are a standard addition to a lunchbox, a staple for cooks and a standout as the basis for any number of tasty desserts.

You can find a tree for Hardiness climate zones 1 through 9. They can be grown as traditional trees or espaliered along a fence or wall.

Other things to keep in mind: the type of apple you want (crisp, soft, tart, sweet), when you want to harvest (from midsummer to late fall), disease resistance and pollination needs.

Plums

When it comes to versatility, plums give apples a run for their money. For a fruit tree, they’re surprisingly hardy. They’re less prone to diseases than others, they don’t grow as rampantly as peaches, and they need less water than many other fruit trees.

Choose from a Japanese plum, such as the well-known Santa Rosa, for Hardiness zones 4 through 9; a European plum, such as Stanley, especially if you live in an area with late and rainy springs or in zones 3 through 9; or a hardy hybrid for the coldest climates. Japanese plums may also need a second tree for pollinating.

Plums may be relatively easy, but they still need some care. This includes fertilizing, pruning and dealing with birds’ stealing the crops. They also can take up to five years before they start producing fruit.

Apricots

Landscape tree or fruit tree? With an apricot tree, you don’t have to choose. These generally smallish trees have a great shape and unusual bark, lovely foliage and fruit that can’t be beat for its delicate flavor.

Of course, you need to be able to grow an apricot tree to get these benefits. It’s not so much that they can’t handle the cold — they’re surprisingly hardy — but they flower so early that the potential fruit crop is easily decimated by frost, and they don’t really handle rainy springs. Their primary Hardiness climate zones are 7 to 9, but if you’re daring, try them in zones 4 to 6 in a protected spot.

Apricots need general fruit-tree care but are somewhat less needy than other fruit trees. You’ll probably need to thin the fruit and prune annually, but the good news is that they’re a good choice for options like espaliering. Be prepared to harvest immediately once the fruit ripens, as it doesn’t hold well on the tree. But the fruit is well worth the trouble.

Cherries

Sweet or sour, cherries are near the top of the list of most people’s favorite fruits. The trees are also beautiful themselves, especially when blooming every spring.

Sweet cherries, from Bings and Lapins to Rainiers and Vans, are the ones you can eat fresh. These trees grow in warmer climates, generally Hardiness zones 5 to 9, although if you’re in the warmest climates, be sure you have one that is designated “low chill.” They also can be temperamental to grow and slow to fruit at first.

Sour cherries may not tempt you to eat them off the tree, but they’re great for baking and preserves. They’re also hardier, doing well in zones 4 to 8, and less problematic, including almost never requiring fertilizer once they’re established.

Peaches and Nectarines

Fresh, fully tree-ripened peaches and nectarines are an experience not to be missed. Their flavor seems to define summer. If you live in zones 5 through 9, this experience can be yours.

Peaches and nectarines are grouped together because nectarines are simply a fuzzless type of peach. The number of peach varieties available to home gardeners is almost overwhelming; nectarines offer somewhat fewer options, but there are still a lot to choose from. There are varieties with white flesh and those with yellow flesh, and for some people that difference is major. You can have fruit from early summer into fall. There are varieties for eating fresh and others that are better for canning. There are even some with unusual shapes and “nonpeach” colors.

Peaches do require lots of care through the growing season, including watering sufficiently, maintaining a good feeding program, thinning, pruning and preventing pests and diseases.

Plum Hybrids

Plum hybrids are rapidly becoming the darlings of fruit lovers. These fruits have the best aspects of their respective parents. The apricot-plum hybrids got the ball rolling, but now you can find hybrids that combine plums with peaches, nectarines and cherries, and it seems like there are many more to come.

Plum hybrids need the same climate conditions as their parents and much of the same care, including water and fertilizer needs, pruning and preventing pests and diseases. Check with local nurseries to see what will do well in your area.

Pears

For home gardeners, pears fall into two categories: European and Asian. European pears are the familiar “pear-shaped” fruits that are an autumn staple. Asian pears, sometimes called apple pears, are round, fragrant fruits with a flavor that seems to explode in your mouth. Both can claim a place in a home garden.

European pears grow well in Hardiness zones 3 through 9, though they generally need considerable winter chill. They’re beautiful, long-lived trees that tend to be large, although dwarf and semidwarf varieties are available. If you opt for a European pear, you’ll also need to be sure you have a pollinator nearby. Your biggest problem, and it can be major, is the tendency to develop fireblight, which can easily get out of control. The biggest challenge besides disease is harvesting: Almost all European pears need to be harvested early and left to ripen off the tree.

Asian pears are best for zones 5 through 9, where temperatures don’t drop too low. They’re smaller than their European cousins and easier to keep in check. They also have a long harvest season, with the bonus that the fruit can stay on the tree until ripe.

Persimmons

Talk about a long-lasting fruit. Even after the leaves have fallen and been raked up, you can still find persimmons hanging on to the tree. Even better, persimmons tend to be naturally smallish trees, ideal for today’s smaller gardens. Japanese or Asian persimmons are probably the better-known trees, growing well in Hardiness zones 6 through 9, but there are native American persimmons and hybrids that combine a smaller size with more cold tolerance for gardeners in zones 4 through 9.

Persimmons also have a reputation for being very tart. It’s true that some astringent or soft Japanese varieties live up to their name in that regard. These have to ripen and soften completely while still on the tree to be palatable. But other Japanese varieties as well as American and hybrid persimmons are nonastringent, sweet while they’re still firm.

No matter which type you choose, you’ll find them ornamental trees that are generally unfussy and easy to care for. They’re also relatively immune to major pests and diseases. Your biggest problem may be trying to determine just when to pick the fruit.

Quinces

This garden gem is often overlooked. After all, who really knows what a quince is? But once you make its acquaintance, you’ll be charmed, especially if you’re looking for a trouble-free fruit tree for a smaller yard in Hardiness zones 4 through 9. It is slow growing, is naturally small (for a tree), requires little pruning, seldom develops problems and rewards you with softly colored spring blossoms and bright fall fruit. In fact, you needn’t even grow it as a tree; it can be trained as a shrub or grown in a container.

Of course, there is the question of what to do with the fruit. It’s decidedly more tart than its apple or pear cousins, but cooking it will soften the sting. If you’re really adventurous, try using it as a base for candies.

The one thing you do need to be sure of is that you buy a true fruiting quince. Flowering quinces abound; you may have to search a bit for one that will provide you with fruit.

Citrus

Citrus is not an option for everyone. Citrus trees grow best in Hardiness zones 8, 9 and 10. In other zones you’re probably limited to containers that you bring indoors, or at least into a sheltered space, in winter.

But if you can grow citrus, you’re in luck. First, you’ll have an evergreen tree with intensely fragrant blossoms and delicious fruit that can stay on the tree for long periods. Then, these are some of the most fuss-free and low-maintenance trees around. They’re more drought tolerant than other fruit trees once they’re established. Pruning is fairly minimal, but you can shape them to whatever form you want, from container to bush to tree to espalier. They’re fairly free of pests and diseases. Probably your biggest problem will be protecting them from freezing.

And your options are many. Oranges and lemons are the most common choices, but also consider growing limes, mandarins, grapefruits, kumquats, citrons and pomelos.

Ditch the chemicals for a naturally beautiful lawn and garden, using living fertilizers and other nontoxic treatments.

Soil

The foundation of a healthy landscape is healthy soil. This is the mantra of many landscape architects. An organic garden relies heavily on compost, because it’s the best method of returning decomposed organic matter back to the soil. Compost tea, manure tea or broken-down compost from your yard waste bin will work magic on your plants.

Other ways to help create a healthy soil ecosystem include the use of organic fertilizer, like fish emulsion and adding mycorrhizal fungi to your soil. The fungi benefit plants by helping them to absorb more nutrients. It’s a natural process that you can foster in your own soil to help your garden thrive.

Living fertilizer. White clover (Trifolium repens) is a nitrogen-fixing low ground cover plant that adds nitrogen to the soil. It does well in nutrient-poor soils and can make a lovely lawn addition. Add clover to your lawn and let the bees and pollinators have a great time.

Clover is very easy to maintain and looks good. Adding a “living fertilizer” like clover contributes to a healthy soil that is rich with nutrients.

Lawn

This is the obvious first place to consider reducing chemical applications. Lawns make up a large percentage of North American homeowners’ landscapes. Who doesn’t love lounging on a lush lawn, and it’s a great surface for kids and pets to run around on. 

Lawn Aeration and Thatch

You may need to aerate your lawn to allow for some oxygen to reach the upper crust of soil. This will improve the soil tilth under your sod and is usually necessary if you have been using synthetic chemicals and fertilizers for several years.

One way to evaluate if your lawn and the soil below are acting as a healthy ecosystem is by looking at the amount of thatch collected under the grass blades. Thatch is the dead, brown grass blades that are meant to break down into the soil. There should be some thatch in your lawn, but not a buildup of more than 2 inches. A buildup means that your grass is not properly breaking down into the soil. Establish a healthy soil ecosystem and the thatch will begin to break down into the soil to feed your lawn.

Mowing

Mowing has a huge impact on the health of an organic lawn. Setting your mower to a higher height that allows the grass to grow longer will actually help shade out some weeds.

There are mixes of grasses called “no mow” and “low mow” that combine several species of grasses that perform and look great on an infrequent mowing schedule.

You also have the option of completely reworking your lawn into a short-grass meadow of sedge. Carex grasses that are native to your region can be densely planted and allowed to grow long to provide a very nice natural look. This type of alternative lawn has been growing in popularity as more gardeners are discovering the beauty of long grasses.

Mulching Your Lawn

Let your lawnmower mulch the grass clippings. This means that the grass clippings are added back to the lawn to break down and feed the soil. For this to work properly, your lawn has to be able to break down organic material. Only start to mulch your grass clippings once you have aerated and established a healthy soil in your lawn, and there is only a small amount of thatch present.

Trees and Woody Shrubs

Do you regularly have a shrub that is diseased or a host to pests? One of the easiest ways to get a pest-free landscape is by using natives. Native plants do not come under attack like the nonnative, ornamental varieties. You can add native plants yourself or do a major overhaul by working with a designer who specializes in native plantings. 

The same principles for building healthy soil apply to trees and shrubs. Be sure to collect your leaves and clippings to add to the compost pile. Adding the dead organic matter to your pile, letting it decompose and then adding it back to your soil is a way to mimic the decay-growth cycle of nature.

Weeds

Weeds are a nuisance to the home gardener. Eradication of weeds can be a constant battle. The key is to be one step ahead of those pesky plants that sprout up in the most undesirable places. Weeds can be hand pulled or removed with hand tools so they are fully dug up.

Pests

There are many, many beneficial garden insects. Learn to differentiate between the good and bad. An influx of a pest is typically a sign of an imbalance in your landscape. Solve the imbalance organically and you may have fewer issues over time as your landscape becomes healthier.

Professionals

Talk with a landscape maintenance company about switching to an organic plan. The lawn-mowing, weed-removing business is very competitive, and your hired company will want to keep you as a client. Communicate that you want to transition to an organic plan. If your current company is unable to provide organic service, find somebody else. 

Landscapes and gardens are always a work in progress. There will be a give and take as you discover how to succeed with your garden organically.

Gates can be a stylish entry to your home and garden. As such, they should be treated as design features in their own right. A gate is somewhat mysterious, making you wonder what’s beyond it. Mixing materials, creating a one-of-a-kind design or incorporating special features such as an overhead arch can all turn your garden gate from ho-hum to shining star.

Getting Started

A gate should be welcoming, obvious, easy to access and effortless to use. The rest of the details — size, location and style — are up to you. They can be the entry point to your property from the sidewalk or street in your front yard, allow access to the back yard from the front, open onto a back alley or even connect your yard with a neighbor’s space.

Size

Gates can range in size from very low, maybe 3 feet high, to very tall, 8 feet high or more. A standard width for a single gate is 3 feet, which provides plenty of room for people and most basic landscaping equipment, such as a lawn mower or a wheelbarrow, to go through.

A double-wide gate is both a gracious entry as well as a practical choice for transferring larger pieces of equipment — anything from a riding mower to a small sailboat — between two spaces.

If your gate will span a driveway, consider setting the posts or supports about a foot beyond the driveway on each side. This makes it more open and also can help prevent cars from accidentally scraping the supports.

Finding Your Gate Style

A look that complements your landscape or your home’s architectural elements (or both) is a good starting point for your gate’s style. A gate that blends seamlessly with an adjoining fence creates a cohesive look throughout the landscape.

If you want to add a subtle difference or some contrast, consider an arched or scalloped top, latticework or a grid pattern, or a decorative design along the top. This might be an opportunity to add in a second material, such as pairing wood with metal or bamboo. You can also include peepholes or see-through cutouts, either for people or pets.

Choosing a gate material that contrasts with fencing or walls will turn your gate into a focal point. A metal gate set into a wood fence can span design styles from traditional to contemporary. A glass gate will modernize your look.

If the top of the gate is slightly lower than the surrounding fence, a simple frame above it can help tie it into the adjoining fence boards. If security isn’t a concern, consider going with a shorter gate, perhaps topped by a trellis, for a welcoming look. Other possibilities include replacing solid boards with latticework or adding decorative elements such as filigrees and arches to the body or top of a metal gate.

Gate Material Options

Wood and metal are the top material choices for gates. Vinyl fences pair naturally with vinyl fencing, but you can also incorporate them as a standalone element. Bamboo and glass are less commonly used but make a strong visual statement. A gate also gives you the opportunity to experiment with a blend of materials.

Wood

Wood is sturdy, easy to install and can be stained, painted or left its natural color. It is also adaptable to almost any design or style. Wood is one of the least expensive gate materials, especially if you choose a wood that is native to or grows easily in your area.

A wood gate will require regular maintenance, which can include sanding and sealing, re-staining or repainting. It will also expand and shrink over the years, and you may have to replace individual pieces that warp, bend or break or reset how the gate hangs.

It will also need to be replaced eventually. You should expect a wood gate to last 10 years at least. With regular upkeep, it will likely last longer, up to 20 years or even more.

Wood Composites

Wood composite gates and boards are made from a variety of materials, including recycled plastic. They are more durable, rot resistant and longer lasting than wood. They also hold up to extreme heat, cold and hard wear better than vinyl.

More color options that closely mimic wood are becoming available. With the right preparation, they can also be painted. Care consists of periodically hosing the boards down.

Wood composite is more expensive than wood at the onset. It also can fade over the years. You may need to replace a wood composite fence every 25 years or so.

Vinyl

If you have a vinyl fence of any style, pair it with a vinyl gate. As a material, vinyl is more expensive up-front than wood, but it also lasts longer. It’s a good choice for warm yet damp climates. It doesn’t warp, rot or shrink; it’s immune to insects and doesn’t need to be painted.

Vinyl traditionally had a fairly limited color palette, but more color options are becoming available, including ones that mimic wood tones. Repairs can be difficult, and vinyl can be damaged when exposed to extreme elements.

Vinyl is very low maintenance, only requiring periodic hosing off and occasionally scrubbing stubborn grime with a diluted dish soap mixture. Expect a vinyl gate to last 30 years or more.

Metal

Aluminum, steel and wrought iron are design stars of the metal gate world. They can create a distinctive, classical look, fit into a rustic design or add a modern sensibility. They can be a solid barrier or allow glimpses both into and outside of your yard. Though a plain metal gate with vertical bars works well for a streamlined look, adding decorative elements will make your gate stand out.

Metal gates are very sturdy and won’t fade over time. They’re a good choice for those living in cold climates, as they can handle temperature extremes.

Aluminum is lightweight and rust resistant but not as sturdy as stainless steel or wrought iron. Stainless steel provides more strength over time but can rust unless treated. Once the gate develops rust, it will need to be sanded and repainted. It is also very heavy.

Both aluminum and stainless steel are more expensive than wood, falling in the mid-range for prices, but they will last longer.

Another option is weathering steel (sometimes called Cor-Ten). It’s admired for its natural or rustic feel, although it can also work well with a contemporary design. Unlike other metal options, weathering steel is designed to develop rust over time. It will be more expensive than aluminum or stainless steel.

To reduce the rusty runoff often associated with weathering steel, detail the gate so it won’t stain surrounding materials. Install it away from the concrete or add drainage that will carry any runoff away from paving. Installing weathering steel on gravel or mulch will result in less-noticeable rust stains.

Wrought iron is the most expensive metal option but offers a timeless appeal that will work with any landscape or architectural style. Although wrought iron gates are very durable and require little upkeep, any chips or damage can open the door to rust if you don’t repair them as soon as possible.

Bamboo

Harvested bamboo is gaining popularity as a landscape material. It is a fast-growing plant, which makes it an eco-friendly material, but you need to be sure the bamboo you’re choosing is sustainably grown.

Bamboo’s density and thickness allow it to stand up to moisture much more readily than wood. It gives a landscape a rustic, natural or Asian feel. Adding a wood frame around the bamboo will give it a finished look. Bamboo stands up well to heat and snow and can be cleaned with water.

You can leave bamboo in its natural state, although it will fade with time. It also can be stained, although you’ll usually need to renew that annually. Bamboo can dent, chip, crack or split, so occasional repairs may be needed.

Bamboo is more expensive than most other gate materials. Expect a bamboo gate in a frame to last at least 20 years.

Glass

A glass gate is an uncommon choice but makes a strong statement in your landscape. It’s a great option for a contemporary or modern look. Your design opportunities are surprisingly varied, including your choice for colors. Choosing translucent glass will offer some privacy while still allowing light into your yard.

You’ll likely need to clean both sides of the glass at least as often as you’d clean windows in your home, and more often if it gets a fair amount of use. The glass can also mar and scratch. While a glass gate is cheaper than adding a full fence of glass, it will still be expensive.

Other Considerations for Adding a Gate

Finishing Touches

The right latch is just as important as the right gate. There are many hardware options to choose from, and, like the gate itself, they should be both decorative and easy to use. Look at your latch as an opportunity to dress up your gate a bit more.

Latches should also be reliable. If security is a concern, consider adding a deadbolt to the gate.

Permits And Regulations

Whether you need a permit for a gate varies widely by location, so check with your building department first for any required permits, regulations or restrictions. Homeowner associations may also have restrictions or guidelines.

Safety

If you have a pool or other “attractive nuisance” in your yard, most local codes have specific requirements regarding the size, locks and permitted materials for gates leading to that area. You can always call your area’s building department or planner and ask for guidance.

When To Do This Project

Installing a gate can be done almost any time. If you live in a cold-weather climate, you will want to tackle this project when the weather is warmer, especially if you need to install posts or dig trenches.

How Long It Will Take

Once the gate is ready to install, it will go quickly. Most gates can be put in place in a day. if you need to set posts or build the gate on site, it may take longer. Larger gates or those that require trenching or electrical work will take longer.

Whom to Hire

If you’re adding a custom gate, you’ll want to work with a fabricator or artisan who specializes in the materials you want to use.

Once a gate is ready to install, look for a licensed landscape contractor. Gates get a lot of use, so you’ll want to be sure yours is done right. If the gate is part of a fence installation, it will usually be included. You also may need added expertise to install a one-of-a-kind gate or one made with unusual materials, such as glass.

If you’re installing a gate, such as one across a driveway, that will open automatically with a remote, keypad or app, you will need additional prep work. You’ll need a fence contractor to install the gate and oversee the other work, a landscaper to trench for the electrician, an electrician to put in the conduit and wire to the gate’s operators and a company to install the operators and the controls.

A gate across a driveway will limit your access from your home if it malfunctions, so look for a reputable company with good reviews. A landscaper or pavement specialist may also be involved in finishing the paving under the gate.

Before you hire anyone, be sure they are familiar with the scope of the project and are experienced in handling the materials you want to use.

Whether you’re trying to break into the real estate market, downsizing or longing for more space for your growing family, there’s probably a tiny house for you. In addition to the trendy appeal to build a compact house on wheels and live an adventurous nomadic lifestyle, living large in a tiny house offers up a wealth of options–and their popularity is surging. 

Canadians Are Curious

The Canadian Real Estate Association has reported record sales active over the last few months, extra space and easy access to the outdoors has reached new heights. While for many this means larger homes in rural and suburban communities, for some, it means turning to tiny homes. 

A recent study shows that consumers are more interested in smaller properties than they were in 2019. Searches for ‘tiny homes’ have increased by 55% since January. For people on a budget looking to stretch their home buying dollar, putting up a custom-built tiny home on a small parcel of land–especially in a rural area like the Sunshine Coast.

That said, despite their small size, tiny homes are faced with some big hurdles regarding where they’re located and how they’re built. It’s important to research your local zoning laws and building requirements before you start building. 

Be sure to consider: 

•limitations to square footages in a rural community versus an urban neighbourhood; 

•the pros and cons of a mobile home built on wheels versus those of a stationary structure with a foundation; and

•facility requirements based on location and type of tiny home (such as service connections for water and electric).  

Tiny houses still occupy a grey zone between being a recreational vehicle (RV) and a traditional detached home—if you’re unclear about the regulations, contact your municipality to learn more or you can contact me. 

A Multi-Functional Space 

Working from home, online schooling and the return home of college students are also sparking the surge in tiny house research. After all, adding a pre-fab tiny home into your yard can add valuable and affordable square footage for an office, guest room, home gym or yoga studio, a pool house and many other uses.

At a fraction of that cost, you can do a lot with the added space a tiny home provides. Embrace your inner minimalist and find creative ways to maximize the room inside your humble abode: use the walls efficiently to create a clutter-free kitchen by hanging as many items as you can; add narrow shelving to any wall that isn’t serving a practical purpose; consider flexible furniture such as Murphy wall beds and foldable tables and benches; utilize sliding walls to avoid the inconvenience of permanent partitions; and save space with loft beds and add storage beneath the stairs. 

The perfect layout for your tiny home is a seamless blend of function and fashion, with the only limit being your imagination.

An Affordable Choice

Tiny homes can also be a cost-effective, simple solution. You can order a prefabricated unit–such as a recycled shipping container or another type of modular mini-home–and have it installed right onto your land. 

It’s also way easier, and cheaper than building an extension onto your house–a storage container only costs about $16,000. They’re built off-site and then delivered and hooked up. So, there’s less interruption into your daily life, because it’s not interfering with the actual interior of your house, which is a major advantage.

A Potential Rental Unit

Tiny homes can also bring in much-needed extra income. In areas that allow a separate structure on your property that’s plumbed and wired to code can become a rental unit. It could be rented out to family, to friends, or as a short-term or long-term rental. 

Thinking Outside The Box

Across North America, people are looking at small structures and being creative, of course, tiny homes aren’t ideal as full-time dwellings for large families with three or more children–unless you put a few of them together–but for singles, couples, smaller families and empty-nesters, there are limitless possibilities for expanding your space, helping boost your property’s resale value, or earning a side income. 

With a 2030 goal for provinces and territories to adopt a national building code that makes Canada “net zero energy ready” and a 2050 deadline to bring the country’s carbon emissions down to net zero, the building industry has been busy implementing guidelines to move the process along.

In Canada, buildings are responsible for 17 per cent of greenhouse gas emissions — 30 per cent when you factor in the carbon from the build process and materials. The road to net zero may be long but the new home industry has already taken big steps, starting with the creation of net zero homes. 

Net zero means that on an annual basis, the home produces as much energy as it consumes. It’s a trend driven not just by the 2050 deadline but by new home buyers looking to reduce energy costs and do their part to address climate change.

The Elements Of A Net Zero Home

Net zero is more than just building “green.” It incorporates green features like upgraded insulation, triple-pane windows, energy efficient furnaces and hot water tanks and energy-rated appliances but takes the entire home into account.

Net zero homes have south-facing solar panels, heat exchange systems, south-facing windows to capture passive solar heat and technology that automatically turns off lights and appliances when not in use. They are airtight, super insulated and sealed.

In order to achieve net zero status, homes must be verified through energy modelling. To be labelled net zero under the Canadian Home Building Association’s (CHBA) Net Zero Labelling Program, homes must be 100 per cent more efficient than what the building code stipulates.

Buyers Demand Energy Efficiency

Four of the top 10 buyer must-haves were energy efficient features. At the very top of the list were appliances, ranking higher than highly coveted walk-in closets. Other desirable attributes were energy efficient windows and overall efficiency.

Air exchange systems ranked higher than two-car garages. Home buyers are looking for heat and energy recovery systems that enhance indoor air quality while minimizing heating costs.

The Net Zero Lifestyle

Simon Gosgnach is the owner of Edmonton’s first net zero home which was built in 2012. He has no gas bill, and his home produces most of its own electricity.

“When you look at our utility savings each month, it is amazing how that reduces the cost of home ownership. Looking back, it is obvious that it was a solid investment that directly contributes to a better environment,” he says.

A net zero home is a healthier home with more even heat distribution. Less air leakage means less dust. There’s higher indoor air quality which is important.