Want to cut down on waste, save money and ensure your soil is healthy and nutrient rich? A great way to do it is to try making your own compost. Here is what you need to know about setting up and maintaining a compost area in your outdoor space.

Which Type Of Compost Bin Should I Use?

When it comes to choosing a compost bin, there are a number of things to think about. The key elements you need are air, moisture and heat - produced by the breakdown process.

There are so many options: plastic, wooden, tumbler and hot compost bins. But it really depends on how much waste you are going to compost, how much work you want to do and how long you’re willing to wait. For example, a hot compost bin keeps the temperature higher, speeding up the process. So you have usable compost faster. A tumbler compost bin makes turning your compost easier.

Size

When considering the height of your bin and make sure you can easily lift a shovel into it and reach in to turn the compost. If it comes with a lid, you’ll need it to be big enough for the shovel, because don’t want to turn it by hand.

If you have the space, A larger compost bin with three-sections is a good option, as this allows you to fill one bin while turning another in rotation. It can be frustrating when your bin becomes full before you’ve produced anything. 

Material

Material is also a key factor in your choice. Dark plastic will absorb heat, which will speed up the decomposition process. They are also often smaller, so are well suited to smaller gardens. Wooden bins can be larger in size, and the larger the pile of material, the higher the temperature it can reach, speeding up decomposition.

How Should I Prepare My Compost Bin?

Compost bins should be laid straight onto the bare earth, with some brown, woody waste material at the bottom to help with drainage.

You could add shredded paper, a layer of grass clippings, autumn leaves — anything that allows the worms to get into the compost.

If your composter doesn’t already have a lid, you can use an old piece of carpet or a sheet of plastic or wood – anything that will completely cover the pile to help keep the heat in.

Laying a weed-control membrane on top, or something that lets the rain get into your compost, will help the microorganisms break it down.

Once this is all in place, you just start adding to it. Try to alternate between soft and woody materials. “

What Should I Add To My Compost Bin?

To get good compost, you need to put in a mix of hard and soft materials. You want it to cater to the tastes of as many microorganisms and worms as you can — too much of any one thing can cause problems and slow or stop the process.

Green Material (Nitrogen Rich)

The professionals recommend adding garden waste, such as lawn clippings and prunings, and vegetable waste. It’s best to mix lawn clippings with other stuff to avoid compacted layers that will struggle to decompose evenly. Every so often, add layers of cardboard to improve aeration.

Soft green waste - food waste - should make up to half of the compost bin.

Organic Material (Carbon Rich)

The rest can be woody materials, such as plant clippings and wood chips, but avoid putting in any very large branches, as these will take a long time to rot.

What Should I Do to Help The Process Along?

Aerate Your Compost Pile 

It’s important to keep your compost pile aerated to give oxygen to the organisms that break down the waste materials. The best way is by turning or digging your compost frequently – ideally at least once a month. It’s hard work, but it’s essential for air to get through.

Poking holes with a broom handle can help, so can putting in coarse material, such as straw, to create air pockets throughout the pile. It also needs moisture, so in dry weather it should be watered.

How Long Until I Have Usable Compost?

An open bin will take around a year to turn waste into compost. Some of the more techy hot compost bins can turn it around much quicker.

The timeframe is also affected by what you add to your compost bin. The more woody material can take around three years to break down; for the softer plant material, it can be less than a year. You’ll know it’s ready when it’s broken down and looks like soil.

Can I Use Half-Ready Compost?

You can, but it’s not recommend. The decomposing process requires carbon (C) and nitrogen (N). If you add your unfinished compost to the soil, there will be a period in which the unfinished compost will take C and N from the soil to decompose itself, so there will be less available for the plants.

How Do I Avoid Pests?

Avoid any cooked waste. Try to stick with vegetable waste and other green material in order to deter rats.

Rats are drawn to the smell of decaying food, so if your compost bin is well balanced, the rats will be less of an issue. Thin layers of grass clippings and shredded paper help to keep a healthy compost pile.

Make sure your compost is well mixed, which will reduce the smell, which may attract pests.

Can I Add Compostable Bags?

They don’t decompose completely. After a year, you may still have some bags around. You can use bags but don’t put them into the compost.

For gardeners, poring over the pages of a seed catalog can be a feast for the eyes; heirloom tomatoes, basil, the seed varieties available to home gardeners rival any farmers market. Similarly, going to a nursery and seeing row upon row of baby tomato, lettuce and kale plants can make it hard to decide where to start. What’s a backyard food grower to do?

By growing a small selection of carefully chosen crops, you will give yourself the best opportunity for success. If you’re new to gardening, it’s better to grow just five types of vegetables rather than 15. Over time, you’ll learn which crops and varieties work best for your microclimate, taste and lifestyle.

Here are some of the best vegetables and herbs for gardeners of all types, including beginners. In addition to being easy to grow and productive, many of these crops are well-suited to growing in small spaces.

Start with favorite vegetables that you regularly buy from the grocery store. If you’re a big fan of kale salads, be sure to plant kale. Radishes are very easy to grow and look gorgeous, but if you’re not a fan of eating them, don’t grow them.

Tender greens like spinach thrive in cool environments. To find vegetables that suit your growing region, look for local seed companies, check out what’s being grown in farmers markets and ask neighbors what they’re growing. Find out your area’s average first and last frost dates; these will provide an essential guideline for when to plant seeds.

Your garden space will also inform what you can grow. If your space is small, choose plants with a small footprint. Zucchini can grow in a large container, but their huge, sprawling leaves may take up the better part of a balcony garden.

Snap Peas

Few things in life rival the flavor of a fresh snap pea right off the vine. Because the sugars in this crop degrade quickly, snap peas truly taste better when grown at home. With their vertical growth, peas don’t take up much room — just be sure to set up a trellis and train them rigorously, as the vines can get unruly. Peas are a cool-season crop and are planted directly into the soil as seeds in late winter or early spring in most areas.

Tip: 

Use a pea inoculant (a powder that acts like a probiotic for peas and beans) at the time of planting to ensure success. Look for varieties that are resistant to pea enation mosaic virus and powdery mildew.

When to Plant: 

Sow seeds about four to six weeks before the average last frost date in spring. In mild-winter climates, peas can also be planted in the fall; sow seeds two to three months before the first expected frost date.

Light Requirement: 

Full sun to partial shade; provide afternoon shade in hot climates.

Radishes

Cheery, colorful radishes are some of the first vegetables gardeners can harvest in the spring. This attractive cool-season plant grows quickly and takes up little room, making it an ideal choice for small-space gardeners. The leaves are also edible and can make a good substitute for cooked spinach.

When to Plant: 

Sow seeds two to three weeks before the average last frost date in spring, and in late summer four to six weeks before the average first fall frost. Continue sowing seeds every two weeks in both spring and fall.

Light Requirement: 

Full sun to partial shade

Mint

Want your own supply of peppermint tea? It’s as easy as growing a peppermint plant. This perennial herb grows so vigorously that it should always be planted in containers — otherwise, it may take over your entire garden. Keep your mint tidy with regular trimming, or allow it to go to flower and attract tons of bees. This hard-to-kill plant is a great choice for apartment gardeners.

When to Plant: 

Purchase seedlings from a garden supply store, or ask a friend to dig up a section of his or her plant. Plant seedlings in early spring, or in the fall in warm-winter climates.

Light Requirement: 

Full sun to partial shade

Chives

Snipped chives taste delicious on eggs, pasta — just about everything. In grocery stores, they can be difficult to find and expensive, but in gardens, they’re incredibly easy to grow. This perennial herb has a long harvest season and will come back year after year if you plant it in nice rich soil. Try growing them in a large pot right outside your kitchen window. Harvest chives by simply giving them a “haircut” with kitchen scissors as needed.

When to Plant: 

Purchase seedlings from a garden supply store, or start seeds indoors eight to ten weeks before the average last frost date. Plant seedlings in the early spring. Chives are perennials and take several years to reach their full size, so harvest lightly until your plants are well-established.

Light Requirement: 

Full sun

Mesclun Mix

The word “mesclun” comes from the Provençal word for “mixture.” In gardening terms, mesclun is a combination of seeds that are planted together to create a ready-made baby salad featuring a variety of colors, flavors and textures. The result is similar to the packaged salad mixes you can find in grocery stores, but far more fresh and exciting. Seed catalogs often have a variety of mesclun mixes to choose from, typically featuring arugula, mustard greens and lettuce.

Tip: 

To achieve success with mescluns, sow seeds thinly (about one seed per square half-inch). Plant some each week and harvest leaves with scissors as soon as they look ready.

When to Plant: 

Plant a little mesclun every one to two weeks from early spring to early summer. In mild-winter climates, plant again from late summer to mid-fall. Water well and protect from hot temperatures.

Light Requirement: 

Full sun to partial shade

Kale

If you’re growing kale in containers, sow seeds similarly to mesclun mixes and harvest the baby greens. In raised beds with rich soil, many varieties will grow more than 6 feet tall. Choose your kale variety according to your climate and season. 

When to Plant: 

Sow seeds in early to midsummer for fall and winter harvest. For a summer harvest, plant seeds in spring two weeks to a month before the last frost date.

Light Requirement: 

Full sun; provide afternoon shade in very hot climates.

Cherry Tomatoes

Tomatoes are one of the most rewarding crops to grow in a home garden. If you’re a new gardener, start with a classic disease-resistant cherry tomato like ‘Sweet Million’. Be sure to build a trellis for the long vines, and plant them in a sunny spot where they can be protected from rain. Cherry tomatoes are an ideal choice for container gardens.

When to Plant: 

Set out starts or nursery plants when the soil is warm and there’s no danger of frost. Start seeds indoors five to eight weeks before your planned planting date.

Light Requirement: 

Full sun

Zucchini

Get ready, because once your zucchini plants start producing, it’ll be hard to keep up with them. Zucchini are famous for producing more food than most people can handle. Check your plants every day or two, and harvest them as soon as they’re a little over a foot long. Just make sure that you have enough space in your garden for this sprawling plant.

When to Plant: 

Sow seeds about two weeks after the last frost date when soil temperatures reach 21 degrees Celsius. You can start seeds indoors about one week before that date.

Light requirement: 

Full sun

By choosing only a few veggies or herbs that you enjoy eating, and that are suited to your growing environment, you’ll set yourself up for a fun and successful gardening experience. Enjoy the process of learning which plants work best for you.

Here’s what to consider about material, style, fuel type, location, cost and safety when adding an outdoor fire pit.

So many options awaits you when it comes to buying a fire pit, whether you purchase a ready-made model or work with a craftsman to make one custom for your space. Either way, it can be tough to know where to begin. Here’s some tips to help guide your decision process.

Local Regulations

Before you jump into buying a fire pit, check with your city building codes and local authorities for regulations about outdoor fire pit placement or restrictions for burning wood. If you live in a condo or apartment complex, also check with your building or homeowners association to see if there are any regulations regarding outdoor fire pits. If you’re renting, run it past your landlord.

There are often regulations regarding fire pit placement for safety, such as siting a fire pit at least 10 feet away from buildings and fences. Some areas may require a site inspection by local fire officials to check that your proposed location is fire-safe. If your area regulates fuel type for environmental reasons, skip wood-burning models and opt for smoke-free ones that run on propane or natural gas.

Style

Fire pits come in a range of shapes, sizes and designs that can fit with any backyard style and homeowner needs. The challenge is narrowing your options and finding the right one for you. A good place to start is to identify a fire pit that coordinates with your existing backyard design in style, color, shape or material.

In addition to selecting a fire pit that fits in with the overall landscape style, choose a model that suits how you intend to use it. 

Size

Fire pit sizes range from small portable models to larger built-in styles. Choose a size and style that fits with your budget and location. Store-bought fire pit models commonly range from 24 to 30 inches in diameter. Built-in units can range from 36 to 58 inches across.

Height can range between low-to-the-ground fire bowls to taller models. If you’d like to be able to rest your feet on the lip of a fire pit, choose a model that’s either even with or slightly lower than standard seat height (typically 18 inches). Fire pit height compared to seat height also affects reflected warmth.

Pro tip: 

If you’d like the fire to warm you from your seat, aim for a lower fire pit. Keeping [a fire pit] a little lower, at 18 to 20 inches, provides more heat to the body.

Keep in mind how much space you’ll need for seating and circulation when determining the fire pit size. As a rule of thumb, budget on about 5 to 7 feet around all edges of a fire pit for chairs and movement through the area. Make sure you design around the fire pit, leaving room for big, comfy chairs and ample mobility.

If you’re planning to add built-in seating, keep the distance between the back wall of the seating area and the fire between 40 and 48 inches.

Permanent or Portable

Another consideration when buying a fire pit is whether you want the flexibility of a portable model or want to invest in a fire pit that will stay put as a permanent feature in your backyard. Lightweight portable fire pits can be a great option for renters; you can move them around and light them up in different areas of the backyard.

Material

Fire pits come in a variety of materials, including stone, metal, concrete or a mixture of multiple materials. Choose a material that suits your taste, coordinates with the design of your backyard and holds up well to stains and frequent use.

There are ups and downs from each material. Concrete is durable but can stain from soot. Powder-coated metal is durable but can get hot. Natural stone is great but can stain and occasionally will crack from heat if not built correctly.

If you are using a natural gas or propane-burning model, you may also be able to select the fire media, material in the flame area that covers the burner. Options range from decorative balls to lava rock and fire glass in many colors, sizes and shapes.

Cost

Fire pits have a wide range of costs. With a fire pit made using stacked stones in a ring or a basic model (typically made of metal and set up for wood burning only), you can keep the price under $100. Freestanding fire pits made from materials such as stone, concrete or powder-coated metal can run from $300 to $2,000 or more, depending on design. For custom and built-in models, budget $1,000 to $5,000 or more.

Fuel Type

Choose among three fuel options: wood, propane or natural gas. Wood-burning fire pits offer the classic crackling fire sound but are increasingly regulated due to environmental concerns about air-polluting smoke. 

Propane and natural gas offer the advantages of being smoke-free, easier to clean up and quicker to turn on and off. Both choices come with pros and cons: If you choose natural gas, prepare to potentially pay more for installation. You’ll also need to obtain a permit in order to extend a gas line. Propane saves on [the] cost of not having a gas line extended or permitted, but you’ll need to figure out where to hide the propane tank, ideally in a spot where it’s out of sight but still easy to refill.

Permitting

In general, you do not need a permit to install a standard-size backyard fire pit. If you choose a fire pit that runs on natural gas, you may need a permit to extend your gas line. Some areas may require a site inspection by local fire officials to check that your proposed location is fire-safe. Fire pits that are considered extra-large, over 4 feet in diameter, may require a permit or have other safety or installation requirements. Check your city building codes and local authorities before getting started.

Location

Building regulations will dictate where your fire pit can and cannot be in your yard, so check those first. Other things to consider when choosing a location for a fire pit include space constraints, fuel type and how you’d like to use the fire pit.

If a fire pit is part of a larger design-build project, one has to consider how it flows with the rest of the design. This includes site lines from the house and how the materials work together. 

Keep in mind that the main use of the fire pit will be in the cooler months. From what direction are the prevailing cold winds? It’s best to situate the fire pit in a space where it will be protected from these winds.

Safety and Other Considerations

Consider fire-safety measures when operating an outdoor fire pit and take measures to reduce risk. Make sure everyone in the house knows how to turn off or put out the fire feature, and never leave young children unattended around the flames.

Both location and choosing a fire-safe flooring material around the fire pit can make a big difference in increasing safety. Fire pits should be positioned at least 10 feet away from buildings and fences, on level ground and in an open area without overhanging trees. Fire-safe outdoor flooring materials to consider include: decomposed granite, crushed gravel, concrete, flagstone pavers or bare earth raked free of all flammable debris.

For wood-burning fire pits, it’s a good idea to have a spark arrester, a screen to catch sparks.

Whatever style or size of fire pit you choose, there’s a good chance it will become a favorite evening hangout spot that will inspire new traditions.

Whether you’re trying to break into the real estate market, downsizing or longing for more space for your growing family, there’s probably a tiny house for you. In addition to the trendy appeal to build a compact house on wheels and live an adventurous nomadic lifestyle, living large in a tiny house offers up a wealth of options–and their popularity is surging. 

Canadians Are Curious

The Canadian Real Estate Association has reported record sales active over the last few months, extra space and easy access to the outdoors has reached new heights. While for many this means larger homes in rural and suburban communities, for some, it means turning to tiny homes. 

A recent study shows that consumers are more interested in smaller properties than they were in 2019. Searches for ‘tiny homes’ have increased by 55% since January. For people on a budget looking to stretch their home buying dollar, putting up a custom-built tiny home on a small parcel of land–especially in a rural area like the Sunshine Coast.

That said, despite their small size, tiny homes are faced with some big hurdles regarding where they’re located and how they’re built. It’s important to research your local zoning laws and building requirements before you start building. 

Be sure to consider: 

•limitations to square footages in a rural community versus an urban neighbourhood; 

•the pros and cons of a mobile home built on wheels versus those of a stationary structure with a foundation; and

•facility requirements based on location and type of tiny home (such as service connections for water and electric).  

Tiny houses still occupy a grey zone between being a recreational vehicle (RV) and a traditional detached home—if you’re unclear about the regulations, contact your municipality to learn more or you can contact me. 

A Multi-Functional Space 

Working from home, online schooling and the return home of college students are also sparking the surge in tiny house research. After all, adding a pre-fab tiny home into your yard can add valuable and affordable square footage for an office, guest room, home gym or yoga studio, a pool house and many other uses.

At a fraction of that cost, you can do a lot with the added space a tiny home provides. Embrace your inner minimalist and find creative ways to maximize the room inside your humble abode: use the walls efficiently to create a clutter-free kitchen by hanging as many items as you can; add narrow shelving to any wall that isn’t serving a practical purpose; consider flexible furniture such as Murphy wall beds and foldable tables and benches; utilize sliding walls to avoid the inconvenience of permanent partitions; and save space with loft beds and add storage beneath the stairs. 

The perfect layout for your tiny home is a seamless blend of function and fashion, with the only limit being your imagination.

An Affordable Choice

Tiny homes can also be a cost-effective, simple solution. You can order a prefabricated unit–such as a recycled shipping container or another type of modular mini-home–and have it installed right onto your land. 

It’s also way easier, and cheaper than building an extension onto your house–a storage container only costs about $16,000. They’re built off-site and then delivered and hooked up. So, there’s less interruption into your daily life, because it’s not interfering with the actual interior of your house, which is a major advantage.

A Potential Rental Unit

Tiny homes can also bring in much-needed extra income. In areas that allow a separate structure on your property that’s plumbed and wired to code can become a rental unit. It could be rented out to family, to friends, or as a short-term or long-term rental. 

Thinking Outside The Box

Across North America, people are looking at small structures and being creative, of course, tiny homes aren’t ideal as full-time dwellings for large families with three or more children–unless you put a few of them together–but for singles, couples, smaller families and empty-nesters, there are limitless possibilities for expanding your space, helping boost your property’s resale value, or earning a side income. 

Whether you’re in a rush to get a lunch made or dinner on the table, an overstuffed fridge can really slow you down. A well-organized fridge, on the other hand, can help food stay fresh longer, reduce waste and make meal prep easier. Here are some simple strategies to get your fridge in order.

Give Your Fridge a Fresh Start

Before you go on your next trip to the store, take the time to give your fridge a thorough cleaning out. Check all those condiment bottles, the bottom of the crisper drawer and the back of the fridge, and pull out anything that is no longer fresh. Once you’ve done this, wiped down the shelves, drawers and door, it’s time to get organized.

Use Bins and Trays to Keep Your Fridge Cleaner

Removable, washable plastic trays and bins make it easy to clean up when a container springs a leak — just remove the whole tray and toss it in the sink or dishwasher. Bins are great for corralling groups of items that you would like to store together.

Make it Easier to Keep Track of Leftovers

Keep a roll of masking tape and a felt-tip marker near the fridge for marking leftovers with the date, and you can tell at a glance whether something needs to be used up soon or tossed.

Organize by Temperature to Keep Food Fresh Longer

The door and top shelf are the warmest parts of the fridge. The middle shelves maintain the most consistent temperature, and the bottom back stays the coldest. The drawers usually give you some additional control for humidity, which can affect how long fruits and vegetables stay fresh.

What to Keep Where

◦  Upper shelves: Leftovers, snack foods and drinks

◦  Middle shelves: Eggs, dairy and deli meats

◦  Bottom shelf: Raw meat and fish

◦  Higher humidity drawer: Fresh vegetables

◦  Lower humidity drawer: Fresh fruit

◦  Door: Butter, soft cheeses, condiments, pasteurized juice and fresh herbs

How to Prep Produce

Washing produce when you get home from the market can be a great time-saver when it comes to making dinner on busy weeknights. However, since water can make fresh produce go bad more quickly, be sure to thoroughly dry all fruit and vegetables before putting them in the fridge.

◦  Whole, washed peppers, carrots and celery can be returned to the drawer after being thoroughly dried.

◦  Freshly washed lettuce should be dried as much as possible in a salad spinner and then gently wrapped in paper towels inside a large zip-top plastic bag or food storage container.

◦  If you plan to chop veggies or fruit in advance, store the cut pieces in airtight food storage containers and plan to use them within a few days.

How to Store Fresh Herbs

Ideally, we would all have pots of fresh herbs within arm’s reach of our kitchen. If you do have an herb garden, aim to snip only as much as you need at one time. If you don’t grow your own herbs, try these methods for keeping those bundles of store-bought herbs fresh for as long as possible.

◦  Fresh basil and cilantro can be treated like a bouquet of fresh flowers: Snip the ends, place in a glass of water and store on your counter. This works well with most other soft, long-stemmed herbs as well (such as parsley).

◦  Smaller bundles of herbs can be gently tucked inside a plastic bag, along with a layer of dry paper towels. Keep the whole bundle in the fridge door, where it’s warmest.

What Not to Store in the Fridge

If your fridge is overstuffed, it could be that you’ve been storing some items that would be better off on the counter or in a cool, dark pantry.

◦  Bananas, avocados and any fruit that still needs ripening should be left on the counter.

◦  Tomatoes, melon and delicate, farm-fresh berries taste best when left at room temperature and eaten within a day or two of bringing them home. But if you need them to last longer, stash them in the fridge.

◦  Keep oils, coffee, bread, potatoes, onions and whole heads of garlic in a cool, dark place.

Make Mini Clear-Outs Part of Your Weekly Routine

While planning what to have for dinner in the week ahead, it’s natural to check for ingredients in the fridge. Use this time to straighten up the shelves and do a quick clearing out of old leftovers and items that are past their prime.